Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan

One year after the first ascent of the NW Ridge of Ghamubar Zom V, Japanse climbers Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida and Yudai Suzuki returned to the Hindu Raj range close to the northern borders of Pakistan to make the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Thui II (6523m).

The trio acclimatised on an unnamed mountain just northwest of Rishit Peak and after waiting 12 days for the appropriate weather window, then set off early on 21 September for their 4-day alpine style ascent. They made three bivouacs, the first at 5810m, the second at 6250m and the third on the summit at 6523. The trio summited at 18:00 and descended the next day abseiling down the same route, reaching ABC at 23:00 on the 24th and returning to BC at 4200m at 18:00 on the 25th of September.

Commenting after the ascent, Suzuki stated "After waiting for 12 days for the weather window, I am so proud and lucky to draw such a beautiful line towards the summit. Also the terrible bivouac at the summit (6523m) made me so painful, cold, and uncomfortable, but that experience even added some spice for this climb. After the sunrise, I saw Ghamubar Zom 5, which we climbed last year. That was truly magical moment."

The 1450m new route has been called Spider’s Thread and breaches difficulties up to ED+, M7, A2. It is believed to be only the second ascent of this remote peak, after the first ascent in August 1978 carried out by the British mountaineers Chris Griffiths, Chris Lloyd and Nick Tritton.