Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum

40 years after their first trip to Pakistan, veteran British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders have made the first ascent of Yawash Sar, at 6258m the highest and most spectacular peak in the Khunjerab sub-range of the Karakoram. The pair climbed the mountain's north west face, reaching the summit during a seven-day outing from base camp and both agree that it could justifiably be called ‘the Matterhorn of the Khunjerab’.

After securing a climbing permit, Fowler and Saunders flew to the region in late August. They trekked in to Yawash Sar and established base camp on meadows at an altitude of around 4,600m, below the First Koksil Glacier. From there, they embarked on an alpine style attempt on the mountain via the north west face, and became the first people to reach its summit on Saturday 14 September. Once they had descended safely and had trekked back to the roadhead several days later, Fowler and Saunders were able to send a message back to the UK to confirm their success. The mountain had been previously attempted in 2002 from the south by a British team, who were defeated by difficult climbing on loose rock at around 6,000m.

Mick Fowler takes up the story: "The face was complex and we were fortunate to find good climbing conditions and, after extensive binocular research, weave our way through numerous probable cul-de-sacs without reaching any impasses. A notable feature of the climb was a lack of good bivouac sites and at one point, we endured an excruciatingly uncomfortable hanging bivouac in strong winds. The position, distinctive objective and continuously excellent climbing combined to make us feel that this was one of the best ascents that we have done together. It was absolutely brilliant!"

Mick Fowler (68) and Victor Saunders (74) first climbed in Pakistan together in 1984, and it was 37 years ago that they made their renowned ascent of The Golden Pillar of Spantik, which lies a few hours away from Yawash Sar. Fowler and Saunders were regular climbing partners in the 1980s when both men lived in London. After Spantik, they didn’t climb together for three decades until reuniting in 2016 to achieve a first ascent on the north face of Sersank in the Indian Himalaya. They had planned more expeditions before Fowler’s cancer diagnosis delayed them. Following successful treatment, Fowler returned to fitness and expeditions, and now explores the Greater Ranges with the additional challenge of needing to use a colostomy bag.