Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer

In winter 2024 while on a ski tour from Antholzerscharte to Magerstein, I noticed an impressive line on Hochflachkofel. After browsing through a guidebook to the Riesenferner group, I realised that the line had not been climbed before, and was really motivated to be the first to climb it. However it took more than a month before I got the chance to climb it.

After a brief, early spell of summer in April, I thought I would have to postpone the ascent until next year. But the end of the month brought with it a cold snap and suddenly the opportunity arose to give it a go. I quickly found the right climbing partner, one phone call explaing the project to Simon Gietl was all I needed, he was game.

We set off highly motivated on 30 April. Since the snow had already started to melt, we decided to do without skis and reach the base of the face wearing just our mountaineering boots. After a quick look at conditions, we decided to give it a try.

The first pitch was quite wet and rocky, but we didn't let this deter us and we quickly sent the first pitch. After a 100m, 60° steep firn slope, we were faced with the "highlight" of the route, the 40m icefall. Conditions weren't quite perfect, but nevertheless climbable. Once we'd climbed the drip, we continued for another 300 meters through a 60° ice-firn gully to the west summit of Hochflachkofel.

When we reached the top, we were greeted by a cold easterly wind, but it didn't manage to spoil our mood. After shaking hands, we descended happy and satisfied to the start of the route, where we packed all our equipment and descended to the starting point. The only thing left to do at this point was find a suitable name. Simon suggested that since it was "Walpurgis Night" that evening, we should find a name with this meaning. After giving it a little thought, we came up with the name Hexentango. Because according to old folklore, on Walpurgis Night, on May 1st, the witches meet with the devil to dance and celebrate .

by Jakob Steinkasserer