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Rive Gauche d’Argentière (Mont Blanc), new mixed climb 'Volevo essere un duro'
17/04/2025 - Alpinism
Rive Gauche d’Argentière (Mont Blanc), new mixed climb 'Volevo essere un duro'
At the Rive Gauche of the Argentière Glacier (Mont Blanc), Massimo Faletti and Enrico Lovato have established 'Volevo essere un duro'. Lovato's report details this challenging and stunning mixed climb located in the Highlands sector, repeated the same day by...
Pietro Bassotto (61) frees 'Mata Leao' (8c+) at Novalesa in Italy
19/03/2025 - Climbing
Pietro Bassotto (61) frees 'Mata Leao' (8c+) at Novalesa in Italy
Interview with Pietro Bassotto, the 61-year-old Italian climber who recently made the first ascent of 'Mata Leao' (8c+) at the La Terrazza crag in Novalesa, Val di Susa, Italy.
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
18/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
29/11/2024 - Book-press
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the...
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
21/10/2024 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
Mountain guide Josef Hilpold has made the first ascent of 'Giai amus a obiare' (6b, 155m) on Pedra Longa in Sardinia.
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all...
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley...
Shauna Coxsey boulders 8B+ in La Pedriza, Spain
05/03/2024 - Climbing
Shauna Coxsey boulders 8B+ in La Pedriza, Spain
At La Pedriza in Spain, British rock climber Shauna Coxsey climbed 'Fotofobia Sit' (8B+/V14+).
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m...
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote...
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.

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