The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
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Michal Coubal
The new Dolomiti New Age sport climbing guidebook brought us under the west face of Coston d'Averau. Extremely motivating were the several sport routes on this wall established by my friend Roly Galvagni. His routes are always a certain guarantee for a great mountain adventure. We chose Corto Maltese VI+ to get acquainted with the wall and get a closer look at the terrain of our planned first ascent. We were thrilled, the route was beautiful and the peaks were bathed in the early evening sun as far as the eye could see.
The next afternoon Martian and I are on a small ledge below a huge rock formation, a wedge thrust into the top of the wall. Its flanks are very overhanging on both sides, but the face high above us hides solid rock and therefore some beautiful climbing. The yellow and white wall to the right, which we liked from below, is unattractive now that we're up close.
Below us we have negotiated 4 pitches of nice, technical climbing, interspersed with an overhang here and there. Fifteen metres higher we discover the entrance to the wedge - an overhanging crack leading to the lip of a triangular face. Too bad we don't have Aya here with us today. She is resting below the face with a temperature and a sore throat.
The dreaded overhang becomes a treat the next day. The amazing exposure on its edge are a great reward for any enthusiastic climber. And the route through the centre of the "face" to the summit is now wide open.
The two crux sections are well protected, on the other pitches we leave only the essentials, but with a complete set of cams or a few pegs these are easy to protect. We used Singing Rock stainless steel bolts with Fischer screws to protect the exit.
The name of the route Utúlie‘n Aurë announces, in the language of the elves that "The day has come". And I hereby wish my friend from afar that when his bad days are over, they will be replaced by happy ones, drenched in sunshine and with mountains all around.
di Michal Coubal
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