Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy

On 6 August 2023, on Sunday marred by a strong icy wind and even some brief snowfall, we climbed a new route on the forgotten "Pera" in the upper Ferro valley above Val di Mello in Italy’s Val Masino. The idea came to use two days earlier, almost as a joke, during the general disarray that precedes a precious, meteorologically unstable weekend in August. Despite our well-known love for these valleys, we spotted this unknown wall completely by chance in the small photo in a guidebook: the next day, Saturday, we decided to walk up to the bivouac become inspired.

On Sunday, despite plenty of doubts (especially due to the overhanging section two-thirds of the way up the wall, which cannot be circumvented) we began the climb. The central spur, on the right, appeared decidedly more feasible from the base (sometimes grassy even); we avoided giving in to temptation however and between the odd ray of of sunshine, snowfall, lightening and hailstorms, we managed to reach the summit against all odds. We did not come across any signs of previous climbers, neither during the ascent nor during the descent.

It was August but we were geared up as if it were a winter climb. We’d only discover on the descent (during a chance encounter with Paolo Cucchi - who knows absolutely everything about this peak) that the legendary Ivan Guerini had climbed the central spur a few decades ago.

Pera del Ferro, the "Iron Pear", peak at just above 3000 metre and is akin to a gigantic prow of a vessel from a primordial era, surrounded and overwhelmed by immense granite waves; just like a pearl inside an oyster, it is embraced by surrounding Ferro Pizzi, the peaks that jealously guard it. The route climbs up an excellent quality rock face in a particularly remote and evocative corner of Val Masino, despite being clearly visible from the valley floor (and even from the San Martino webcam!).

Our Vascello Fantasma, or Ghost Ship, climbs the compact south-west face of Pera and gradually steepens as it ascends enormous slabs, seeking the most logical and protectable line throughout. It is therefore to be considered a "modern" route, but certainly not an alpine sport climb: only three bolts were placed on the nine pitches; almost all the initially peg-protected belays have been replaced by a single bolt with an abseil ring. The first pitches climb the aforementioned splendid smooth slabs which until a few decades ago were covered by a glacier.

This route is recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant for quality rock and excellent climbing. The difficulties are not continues and the crux sections are relatively short, so we do not recommend it for pure sport climbers and those keen on physical feats.

The proximity of the Molteni-Valsecchi bivouac and its location in the Ferro valley make it relatively 'quick' for a route located above 3000 metres. Having said that, it is still located in the upper Val Masino, so a bit of effort is necessary!

The valley head is currently lacking in rock climbs (the Pizzi del Ferro traverse is a long and more alpine outing), and this is unfortunate given the presence of the comfortable bivouac. Just beyond Pera lies "Popolo dell’Autunno”, the route that ascends the pre-summit of Pizzo del Ferro Centrale. Established in 1980 by Miotti, Spini and Mottarelli, at first glance the start and descent now appear decidedly more complicated due to the retreating glaciers.

by Matteo Bedendo