Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation

Climbing is our love - whether we find ourselves tackling existing routes or pioneering new ones.

The alpine sport climbs that we love so much have been established by passionate climbers employing primarily two methods: rap bolting (making use of fixed ropes), or ground-up (climbing from the base of the rock face).

On multi-pitch routes, but sometimes even on single pitches, the “ethically rigorous” ground-up approach is considered to display the greatest level of sportsmanship, because it places first ascensonists on an equal footing with those who attempt to repeat the route, Furthermore, it adds layers of uncertainty and commitment. Indeed, in order to place bolts, first ascensionists often find themselves in precarious positions, relying on insecure skyhooks or crimping a hold with one hand while drilling with the other.

We believe this to be the fairest method to establish a new route, because it permits us to climb only those rock faces whose inherent difficulties we are capable of mastering. This philosophy ensures that we leave challenges for future generations, whenever we find ourselves lacking the necessary physical or mental fortitude.

We believe this is an extremely important aspect of new routing and the fairest possibile approach. It prohibits us from ascending all virgin walls, and ensures that we only climb what we are truly capable of.

However, the advent of various removable progression anchors (intermediate bolt holes, firstly "removable bolts", now "Pulse") has diversified the methods of ground-up route development. These range from the most ethnically pure (complete free climbing between each bolt placement) to entirely aid climbing (additional drilling between bolts, A0, etc.).

Ground-up new routing with these "artificial" aids can be carried out by anyone, regardless of their climbing ability. Temporary pro can be removed and definitive bolts added, while seconding or on toprope, in order to complete a route. This means that, with minimal effort and extremely quickly, potentially every rock face around the world can be bolted and climbed.

These differences in first ascent style are, on the whole, difficult to notice for those who repeat a climb, yet they are of paramount importance. Indeed, for a ground-up first ascensionist, it is not only important to climb a route free, like sport climbers, but above all to approach a blank face or virgin line with utmost respect.The differences in the two extremes are substantial: on one end, we have a "mixed" ground-up bolting-style that lacks any athletic or historical significance (akin to rap bolting), and on the other, a genuine feat that sometimes even deserves a place in climbing history.

We are concerned that the proliferation of such ethically dubious route-development could lead to the indiscriminate consumption of the world's most beautiful virgin rock faces, depriving future generations of climbers and new routers of untouched challenges.

While individual freedom in climbing and route development is of paramount importance, we urge commentators and journalists within both digital and print media to specify the style of first ascent when known. Similarly, we encourage authors of climbing guidebooks to adopt universally recognised symbols to denote the bolting style:

↧ Rap bolting
↥ Ethical ground-up bolting
↦ Mixed ground-up style

To conclude, we, the undersigned, pledge that for all new ground-up bolting:

• On multi-pitch routes, we will opt for ground-up ascents over rap bolting.
• We will abstain from aid climbing (intermediate holes or other forms of aid) between definitive bolt placements.
• We will avoid any form of “cheating”, such as taking a detour and later correcting the route line from above, or abseiling to conduct preliminary reconnaissance.
• In essence: we will never force future repeaters to climb sections that we ourselves have not mastered during the first ascent, and provide them with the same conditions we encountered.

We wish you all wonderful climbing and adventures.

If you wish to sign this open letter, please send an email to one of the following:
Rolando Larcher rollygo65@gmail.com
Maurizio Oviglia info@pietradiluna.com
(signatures follow)

SIGNATURES AS OF 7 JUNE 2024
Matthias Andrich (D)
Giangi Angeloni (IT)
Lorenzo Angelozzi (IT)
Daniel Anker (CH)
Gabriele Antonelli (IT)
Filippo Arigoni (IT)
Federico Asciolla (IT)
Markus Aufderklamm
Marco Augeri (IT)
Sara Avoscan (IT)
Paolo Baldassarre (IT)
Simone Banal (IT)
Henry Barber (USA)
Christos Batalogiannis (GR)
Vangelis Batsios (GR)
Alessandro Baù (IT)
Alessandro Beber (IT)
Marco Bernini (IT)
Beatrice Bigu (IT)
Gianfranco Boi (IT)
Daniele Bolognani (IT)
Danilo Bozzi (IT)
Tiziano Buccella (IT)
Fabian Buhl (DE)
Michele Cagol (IT)
Renzo Caimi (IT)
Mauro Calibani (IT)
Michele Caminati (IT)
Cristian Candiotto (IT)
Marco Casalegno (IT)
François Cazzanelli (IT)
Dario Cereda (IT)
Agostino Cittadini (IT)
Marco Cordin (IT)
Luca Cornella (IT)
Simon Croux (IT)
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Giacomo Damiola (IT)
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Paolo Dalmasso (IT)
Massimo Datrino (IT)
Marco Davoli (IT)
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Marco Davoli (IT)
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Sina Heidari (IR)
Julian Hölzle (GER)
Boris Hristovski (AT)
Markus Hutter (DE)
Recep Ince (TR)
Robert Jasper (DE)
Tommaso Lamantia (IT)
Jacopo Larcher (IT)
Rolando Larcher (IT)
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Fabio Leoni (IT)
Ben Lepesant (LU)
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Beat Kammerlander (AT)
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Peter Keller (CH)
Michael Kemeter (DE)
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Antonio Mancino (IT)
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Paolo Masenello IT)
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Heinz Mariacher (AT)
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