Silvan Schüpbach frees Tradündition on Dündenhorn in Switzerland

The 8-pitch route Tradündition on the west face of the Dündenhorn was first climbed in 2020 by Peter Von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach and freed by Schüpbach on 15.10.2021. Due to the continuous difficulties and because no bolts were used, it is highly likely to eb- the most difficult, trad multipitch route in Switzerland. The route has some insitu pegs and peckers, otherwise it's protected by nuts and cams.

The first ascent
In spring 2020 - for well known reasons - remote places for climbing were particularly in demand. Von Känel and Schüpbach hiked the 1500 vertical meters from Mitholz (Bernese Oberland) to Dündenhorn on several occasions, initially as cardio training and to explore a lonely and untouched wall. The two alpinists immediately realised though that the west face of the Dündenhorn was something special: excellent rock and no existing routes are a rare commodity nowadays!

After Von Känel and Schüpbach had climbed a nice route up to 6c, the two wanted to explore their limits a bit more. In the central part of the wall the two sought an uncompromising line through steep, compact walls and a large overhang. For the first pitch, the two needed an entire day. On the next occasion, the pair climbed to one pitch below the summit, where a logical rightwards trending crack speeded up progress. While rappelling, Schüpbach realised a more harder, more direct version would be feasible.

In fall Schüpbach returned with Simon Wahli and the "good" style took a backseat: since the upper, difficult pitches are easily reached via a crack system, the two checked out the upper crux pitch from above.

Subsequently, Schüpbach returned a few times, only to find the line wet. It was not until September 2021 that the route - with the help of Simon Wahli, Kaspar Grossniklaus and Lionel Steiner - was equipped with fixed ropes. Silvan used these to specifically check out the pitches for a redpoint ascent.

On 15 October 2021 the time had come: supported by Von Känel, Schüpbach managed to redpoint the entire line. What's more, the last pitch was established on that occasion, meaning that the first free ascent also happened to be the first ascent.

"Climbing without bolts in compact limestone walls demanded much more time, logistics and skill from us. It was not uncommon for us to place several pieces of pro at the same height and yet not be entirely sure whether they would hold. We were both 100% motivated and pushed each other." explained Schüpbach, adding "Even if we now left in-situ gear and improvised rappels, this route still offers a great adventure for those who wish to repeat it. All climbers are free to replace the fixed gear or use nuts and cams as additional pro. Our desire though is that the Dündenhorn remains a bolt-free zone. We would be very happy if in the future climbers can experience an adventure like we had. It is great that there are so many possibilities where climbers can live out their passion without danger. But it seems to me that in recent years a lot of routes have been set up along the lines of a climbing gym, and I hope that there are and always will be places where it's the mountains that dictate whether there is pro and what it's like. I believe that if as few traces as possible are made and that if the - little - in-situ gear is easy to remove/replace, a route retains much of its original wild nature and can be "discovered" again and again."

Links: slack-line.ch, Karpos, Petzl, SCARPA