Angelika Rainer end of season drytooling on Low G Man at Bus del Quai

What seemed impossible earlier this season has now become possible; that long, enormous move on Low G-Man at Bus del Quai that proved the crux for Angelika Rainer has now been resolved thanks to her determination and that little bit of extra risk that sometimes makes all the difference.

Rainer, a mere 163cm tall, had to stretch out completely in order to make the move, and the hard bit wasn’t only reaching the hold, but letting go of the previous one! "I was so stretched" explained Rainer, "that I was unable to remove my ice axe. It was frustrating being able to do the entire route except for that one move. The first time I managed to do it" Rainer continued "I swung for several seconds before stopping, I thought my shoulder would explode, but from that moment on I realised that I’d eventually succeed. The second time I stuck the move I climbed the rest of the route, but broke a hold just below the anchor! I was furious, like never before! So I decided to back off for a while, but later I realized I wanted this route so much that I returned and sent it first go, venting off all the anger I’d built up in the meantime!"

This 35m climb, freed last year by France’s Jeff Mercier, starts up The roof D12 and finishes on Kamasutra, the D13+ Rainer freed two years ago. The long crux move is where the two routes join and is clearly visibile in the video below, an amateur document of her redpoint that provides a good idea of ​​how demanding this route is. Needless to say this is a great end to the ice climbing season for Rainer who in early February pulled off a flash ascent of the D13Next Level at Usine in France.

Rainer concluded: "What makes me happy is that these three routes offer different styles of climbing, requiring technique, power and stamina. This bodes well for next season and is great compensation for all the hard training. Now though it’s time to go rock climbing, and I have some great projects in mind. Happy climbing to everyone!"