Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France

Today I felt like four years ago, at the base of my first 8b+ sport climb, Non mollare at Pian Schiavaneis in the Dolomites, when I was overcome by exactly the same sensations as today. Non mollare. Don’t let go. "The name of the route is exactly what I need to do, what I’m aiming for" is what I thought four years ago and today, on those first long reaches on Next Level, I realsied that this climb could transform into my own "next level" flash, after Reverse Stratofortness M12+ in Colorado a month ago.

While analysing the route from below, and after every single move I made, it seemed to me as if this route would be impossible, especially since I’m 163cm tall and my arm span is smaller than that of most men. But the higher I climbed, the more confident I became, so much so that I started to vent all the anger I’d accumulated during the last two disappointing competition weeks. The climb had been bolted and freed by talented local climber Gaetan Raymond and, guided by his beta and cheered on by the climbers, I managed to reach the chain. Not without the usual twist during the final metres though, where I had to battle hard to free an ice axe that had got stuck in a hold immediately below the chain.

This was my first visit to this magical crag, the cradle for France’s best drytoolers. The cave is famous for its long reaches and I have to admit I’m really pleased with my two days of climbing on these routes that really test both your power and endurance! I’m now more motivated than ever to try my current projects, with ice axes, but also those at sports crags… I can’t wait to get my hands on some warm spring rock!

by Angelika Rainer