The routes

65
Routes in archive
Indurain tiene dos huevos
Climbing routes
Indurain tiene dos huevos - Trident du Tacul
ED, 7a max
Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...
Jottnar
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Jottnar - Mont Blanc
VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
Koala Pirla
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Koala Pirla - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Beatuiful, logical climb up Gran Flambeau; modern style with some delicate moves.
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge - Mont Maudit
IV / D / 55°
One of the most beautiful and classic ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, set in the magnificent high altitude ambient. Varied, up mixed terrain and with snowy sections that are deciedly knife-edge and airy (Gino Buscaini).Were we to define...
L'isola che non c’è
Climbing routes
L'isola che non c’è - Aiguille Croux
7b+ max./7a obbl. RS3+
L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...
L'or du temps
Climbing routes
L'or du temps - Grand Capucin
7c+
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...
La Vie in Rosa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La Vie in Rosa - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Logical climb up Gran Flambeau, established while the Giro d'Italia visited Mont Blanc. Pitch 3 climbs a magnificent corner; 4 bolts improve safety while breaching the overhang.
Le Fou de l’Aiguille
Climbing routes
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Le manteau de l'Eveque
Climbing routes
Le manteau de l'Eveque - Aiguille de l'Eveque
7a+
Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Les Dégaines disparu
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Les Dégaines disparu - Torrione d'Entreves
TD-
A little ice and mixed climbing gem, clearly visibile from the Skyway cable car. The couloir is located below Torrione di Entrèves, between Aiguille de la Brenva and the Toula glacier.
Les Intouchables
Climbing routes
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul
ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
Les Pèlerins et la Dame
Climbing routes
Les Pèlerins et la Dame - Aiguille de l'Eveque
6c/A0
Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch.  The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Ligne Blanche
Climbing routes
Ligne Blanche - Chandelle du Tacul
ED, 7a+ max
A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.
Mares
Climbing routes
Mares - Aiguille de la Brenva
ABO, 7c+ max, expo
Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.
Million Reasons
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Million Reasons - Aiguille de la Brenva
WI5, M7
Ephemeral mixed modern climb uo the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva.
Miss No
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Miss No - La Vierge du Flambeau
ED M8
Miss No is a difficult modern mixed climb established onsight April 2017 up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau. Despite its easy access from the Torino hut, in the past this mountain strangely never attracted much attention.


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