The routes

Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...

Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch.  The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.

Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.

Nocturnal Nightmare is an absolutely superb and highly recommend outing up the Pala di Fornolosa. Such an adventure to establish this from the ground with no idea of where we were going!

Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock. A quick team can start at circa 14:00 in the sun and top out in 3-4 hours.

Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.

Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.

A short but beautiful route, with a single 6a crux. Ideal for those new to climbing on the Mont Blanc.

A historic route, probably the most popular on the entire face, which has by now become a crag above 3500m. The fourth pitch is fantastic, and the upper section offers numerous escape routes.

Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.

Difficult multi-pitch climb up the Roi de Siam granite tower, located directly in front of the Petit Capucin. Established ground-up, the climb takes a line in the center of the face, between the 1989 Petit Capoussin climb and the classic Boccalatte...

Great 5-pitch line established by Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti in September 2012.

The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ...

Via Locatelli is the easiest crack climb up Sergent. A great classic, highly popular at the weekends, it provides varied and fun climbing with just one challenging move and a characteristic claustrophobic section! An excellent introduction to the valley and...

A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...