Spigolo Scoiattoli - Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
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Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Albino Michieli, Lorenzo Lorenzi, Gualtiero Ghedina, Lino Lacedelli, 1959
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
450 m
Height
2973m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6/A1
Route
An aesthetic and exposed line up the imposing NW arête which goes free at 7a. The rock is fairly solid, except for on the first pitches it shares with Via Cassin.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
Start as for Via Cassin up the first four pitches and then continue straight up. Descent
Reach the ledge and traverse right onto the South Face. Descend for 20m to a col that faces Cima Grande. Descend left into a gully, first left, then right, to avoid the boulders in the middle. Continue down the gully to the scree slope between Cima Grande and Cima Ovest. Gear
There are numerous pieces of in-situ gear, at times of doubtful quality though. Some belays are equipped with bolts.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
Start as for Via Cassin up the first four pitches and then continue straight up. Descent
Reach the ledge and traverse right onto the South Face. Descend for 20m to a col that faces Cima Grande. Descend left into a gully, first left, then right, to avoid the boulders in the middle. Continue down the gully to the scree slope between Cima Grande and Cima Ovest. Gear
There are numerous pieces of in-situ gear, at times of doubtful quality though. Some belays are equipped with bolts.
Comments
28/07/2008 carlo gianassi
Salita molto bella e impegnativa, roccia da buona a discreta. Credo che il primo tetto da affrontare al 5 tiro se fatto in libera sia più di 7a. Anche il secondo strapiombo quando si riparte dalla nicchia credo che fatto in libera sia almeno 7a. Il resto della via è sempre molto esposta, sempre abbastanza strapiombante. Arrivati alla cengia di fine via dovete andare verso destra e seguire degli ometti. Passato il secondo ometto se arrivate ad un sosta con cordini e due chiodi avete sicuramente sbagliato. Quella calata porta a scendere dal parte destra della cima ovest e non da canale di sinistra. Noi abbiamo sbagliato ma con circa 6 doppie non facili siamo arrivati alla base. La discesa normale una volta arrivati al secondo ometto presente sulla grande cengia credo che dobbiate salire per risalit rocciosi e poi seguiro quello che vi dice la via di discesa.
Beauty
First ascent
Albino Michieli, Lorenzo Lorenzi, Gualtiero Ghedina, Lino Lacedelli, 1959
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
450 m
Height
2973m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6/A1
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
