Via Andrich - Torre Venezia - Civetta
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Planetmountain
Elegant classic route which climbs the arête that divides the west face from the south. This is a pleasant and exposed route up good quality rock, at times excellent, which first climbs the large face, then the obvious beautiful featured corner. The belays are equipped with in-situ pro and the pitches have some pro on them too, nevertheless take a full set of trad gear and Kevlar threads. Well worth a repeat.
From Agordo drive to Listolade, then continue up to Capanna Trieste (tel. 0437.660122) and park the car here.
AccessLeave the car and walk up to Rifugio Vazzoler (tel. 0437.660008) in circa one hour, then continue towards Rifugio Tissi. Walk past the unmistakable base of Torre Venezia to reach a large alpine meadow (Pian di Pelsa) festooned with boulders. Leave the main path here and take a small track to the right which rises up to the left of the trees. Once at the base of the rocks the path traverses beneath Punta Agordo to a gully which separates this peak from Torre Venezia. Walk up the scree gully to the top and then traverse right along the obvious ledge which crosses the entire wall. Tie in at circa halfway, close to some trees, then continue on for another 40m to reach the first belay with three pegs at the base of the black wall.
DescentExit from the wall onto the scree ledge beneath the summit, walk left to the north face. A small path leads to a first red marker which signals the descent point. Descend a few meters to a small terrace, equipped with peg and ring. A few 20m and 40m abseils lead to a wide ledge. Follow this left at first, then scramble down a wide gully to another abseil. Exit from the gully on the right and take the small path from the base back to the refuge.
GearThreads, quickdraws, full set of nuts and medium sized friends for the corner.
Ripetuta a giugno 2024. Molto bella e continua, ogni tiro ha almeno una sequenza sostenuta. I chiodi lungo i tiri sono pochi ma la via è facilmente integrabile soprattutto con friend, con possibilità di usare qualche dado e qualche clessidra. Prestare molta attenzione sulla cengia circolare per raggiungere, disarrampicando in elevata esposizione, il primo anello di calata.