Via Spirit - Cima d'Auta
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Planetmountain
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Planetmountain
Fantastic route first ascended by Massimo Da Pozzo and Danilo Serafini in September 2003. Magnificent climbing on splendid featured limestone with plenty of small pockets and small crimps, very similar to the nearby South Face of the Marmolada. The route is demanding (7b obligatory) and follows a series of slabs up the center of the S Face. Thanks to the solid rock and the beauty of the actual climbing, Spirit is comparable to the most famous routes in the Dolomites and the Rätikon.
Take the SS346 from Cencenighe Agordino towards Falcade, at the fork at Caviola turn right following signs for Colmean. Park the car in the car park at the end of the tarmacked road and continue on foot along path S.689 (1274m). Walk past the Baita dei Cacciatori hut and continue on to the next hut dedicated to Papa Giovanni Paolo I. A small path continues upwards from here and at a certain point it splits into two: left leads to the Ferrata Paolin Piccolin while right leads to col De Negher. Continue right and leave the path after a few hundred meters to ascend a gully which leads quickly to the base of the wall and the start of the route. (1hour and 20 minutes).
DescentFrom the final equipped belay scramble up to a kairn (grade II), then make a 20m abseil to reach a ledge. Ascend this to a path which leads to the mountain summit or back down to the base.
Gear10 quickdraws, two 60m ropes
NotesSplendid featured limestone, very similar to the South Face of the Marmolada. Demanding route, entirely bolt protected.
Via spettacolare su placche compatte dal primo all’ultimo metro. A mio avviso, utile una serie di friend per proteggersi, in particolare sui tiri più facili dove la distanza tra le protezioni aumenta. I gradi riportati potrebbero risultare leggermente sovrastimati, ma ciò passa in secondo piano data la bellezza della via. Ambiente magnifico.