The routesClimbing routes

South Face Direct Route - Naranjo de Bulnes (Pico Urriellu) 



V- / HS (4b)
The most popular route on Naranjo de Bulnes. This, the original line of ascent, provides a classic outing on good rock in some stunning positions. A steep but well protected start gradually eases off to more slabby rock that decreases...

L'Ange en Décomposition - Gorges du Verdon 



7a
Another masterpiece by Philippe Maclé, "Ange" is one of the routes in the gorge. The rock quality is outstanding and the climb takes an extremely exposed line up the Fenrir prow with the entire Verdon void beneath your feet. Soloed...

The Nose - El Capitan 



5.13c or 5.9 A2
Possibly the most famous climb in the world, The Nose is the route. It marked the era of big wall climbing in Yosemite and is a true work of art; audacity and tenacity enabled the first ascentionists over a period...

Rêve de Fer - Gorges du Verdon 



6b+
Hailed as one of the best multi-pitches in the Verdon, Rêve de Fer is quite simply a must. The rock quality and ambience render this 4 pitch climb a truly unforgettable outing.

Surveiller et Punir - Gorges du Verdon 



7a+
Fabulous 7a+ multi-pitch, one of the best and most photographed in the Verdon Gorge, first ascended in 1981 by Jean Marc Troussier. After a gentle first two pitches the route kicks in with a technical 7a+ crux, to finish in...

Kaos - Monte Gallo 



7c
Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.

Via Giovanni Segantini - Monte Colodri 



6c+
On 19 September Massimo Antonini and Giampaolo Calzà completed the first ascent of Via Giovanni Segantini on the East Face of Monte Colodri, Arco, Italy. The route pays homage to both the 1858 Arco born artist and the art of...

British Way - Bruncu Nieddu 



7a+, E5 6a
First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia on Punta Cusidore, the west face of Bruncu Nieddu, just a few meters away from the historic "Spalle al Muro" (Bernardi Demichela, 1981), one of the legendary routes of the 1980's. British Way...

Silbergeier - IV Kirchlispitze 



8b/8b+
Silbergeier is a fantastic route in a marvellous position. The route is perfectly vertical and offers super technical face climbing on small edges and microscopic footholds. The moves are hard to decipher, especially the first time on the route which...

Italia '61 - Piz Ciavazes 



8a
In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti,...

Le Droit Chemin - Presles 



TD+, 7b max
Rightly described as "sublime" in the guidebook. A pocketed technical slab gives way to a strenuous overhanging pitch, which can also be overcome in A0. The rock and atmosphere on this 8 pitch route in the Sector Paroi Rouge are...


Vue de L’exterieur - Presles 



ED-, 7a
An excellent, sustained masterpiece, considered to be one of the best at Presles. Located in the Sector Chrysanthemes, the first half of this six pitch route is technical and fingery, while the second airy and pumpy. Not to be missed.

Avec vue sur la mer - Presles 



6a/A0
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.

Bim bam boum - Presles 



D, 5c
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.

Mister Magoo - Piccolo Dain 



7c/S2/II
First ascended from the ground-up with bolts, the route is dedicated to their teacher Franco Cavallaro who, together with Giuanguido Dalfovo, carried out the first repeat and redpoint on 17 November 2008. These commented: "The route climbed by strong Canale...
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