Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa - Piz Ciavazes
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Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa: Renato Bernard climbing Baci da Honolulu + Al.Fa. Photo Alberto De Giuli
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Baci da Honolulu: Mauro Roversi & Ornella Calza, 1986. Al.Fa: Aldo Leviti & Fabio Longo 1990
By
Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
250m
Difficulty
7b+
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
Stupendous combination of two existing routes which had fallen into disuse, probably due to the state of the original pro. The first half climbs technical slabs, the second is more athletic up excellent rock. Re-equipped in summer 2009, the route is well protected but the bolts are at times run-out.
Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park walk up the path which leads to the base of the mountain. The route is located in the middle of the face, 4m to the right of Via Roberta ("BH" written at the base). As you walk towards the face, aim for the horizontal roof 50m above the base. Itinerary
P1: 7a, 35m
P2: 7b+, 20m
P3: 6b, 25m
P4: 7a, 30m
P5: 6a, 25m
P6: 6b, 25m
P7: 6b+, 25m
P8: 7a, 20m
P9: 7a/7a+, 30m
P10: 6c,6a+, 50m Descent
Abseil down the route or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci.
Gear
12 quickdraws one 70m rope Notes
Rebolted by Alberto De Giuli, Renato Bernard (G.G.A.A.) and Andrea Gabrielli in summer 2009. Thanks to Val di Fassa Climbing for having provided the gear.
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park walk up the path which leads to the base of the mountain. The route is located in the middle of the face, 4m to the right of Via Roberta ("BH" written at the base). As you walk towards the face, aim for the horizontal roof 50m above the base. Itinerary
P1: 7a, 35m
P2: 7b+, 20m
P3: 6b, 25m
P4: 7a, 30m
P5: 6a, 25m
P6: 6b, 25m
P7: 6b+, 25m
P8: 7a, 20m
P9: 7a/7a+, 30m
P10: 6c,6a+, 50m Descent
Abseil down the route or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci.
Gear
12 quickdraws one 70m rope Notes
Rebolted by Alberto De Giuli, Renato Bernard (G.G.A.A.) and Andrea Gabrielli in summer 2009. Thanks to Val di Fassa Climbing for having provided the gear.
Comments
12/09/2011 Swen Harald
Very nice route. The best pitches are p1 and p4. - very technical and sustained slabs. The upper part was a little bit dirty - earth/dirt in most of the holds. The upper part of the route is also very different from the bottom part. We found the climbing on the easier pitches through the roofs quite tough for the grade. The 8th pitch has a line of bolts every meter but offers a free line by staying just right of the bolts. The roof provides the crux. The 9th pitch felt more like 7b+ to us.
Beauty
First ascent
Baci da Honolulu: Mauro Roversi & Ornella Calza, 1986. Al.Fa: Aldo Leviti & Fabio Longo 1990
By
Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
250m
Difficulty
7b+
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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