The routes

The most popular route on the crag and a great introduction to typical Picos climbing.  The difficulties are mostly low down, but a good eye for route finding is needed to keep you on track!

The blank looking East Face of Naranjo de Bulnes is an intimidating yet inspiring objective.  Early starts are recommended as it’s easy to underestimate the length of the routes on this face.

The most popular route on Naranjo de Bulnes.  This, the original line of ascent, provides a classic outing on good rock in some stunning positions.  A steep but well protected start gradually eases off to more slabby rock that decreases...

Another masterpiece by Philippe Maclé, "Ange" is one of the routes in the gorge. The rock quality is outstanding and the climb takes an extremely exposed line up the Fenrir prow with the entire Verdon void beneath your feet. Soloed...

Possibly the most famous climb in the world, The Nose is the route. It marked the era of big wall climbing in Yosemite and is a true work of art; audacity and tenacity enabled the first ascentionists over a period...

Hailed as one of the best multi-pitches in the Verdon, Rêve de Fer is quite simply a must. The rock quality and ambience render this 4 pitch climb a truly unforgettable outing.

Fabulous 7a+ multi-pitch, one of the best and most photographed in the Verdon Gorge, first ascended in 1981 by Jean Marc Troussier. After a gentle first two pitches the route kicks in with a technical 7a+ crux, to finish in...

Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.

On 19 September Massimo Antonini and Giampaolo Calzà completed the first ascent of Via Giovanni Segantini on the East Face of Monte Colodri, Arco, Italy. The route pays homage to both the 1858 Arco born artist and the art of...

First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia on Punta Cusidore, the west face of Bruncu Nieddu, just a few meters away from the historic "Spalle al Muro" (Bernardi Demichela, 1981), one of the legendary routes of the 1980's. British Way...

Silbergeier is a fantastic route in a marvellous position. The route is perfectly vertical and offers super technical face climbing on small edges and microscopic footholds. The moves are hard to decipher, especially the first time on the route which...

In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti,...

Rightly described as "sublime" in the guidebook. A pocketed technical slab gives way to a strenuous overhanging pitch, which can also be overcome in A0. The rock and atmosphere on this 8 pitch route in the Sector Paroi Rouge are...

A sustained, strenuous 12 pitch outing up magnificent rock!

An excellent, sustained masterpiece, considered to be one of the best at Presles. Located in the Sector Chrysanthemes, the first half of this six pitch route is technical and fingery, while the second airy and pumpy. Not to be missed.

One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.