The routes

Climbing routes

653
Routes in archive
Umbras
Umbras - Punta Cusidore
8a
Very technical climbing on Punta Cusidore, up rock which is reminiscent of the Verdon. The route is bolted but at times there are very long run-outs. Of the routes that I've first ascended in Sardinia, Umbras has true character, like Hotel Supramonte and...
El Gringo Loco
El Gringo Loco - Gorges du Verdon
6a
Nice little three-pitch route up excellent rock, easy to get to as it is located close to the Belvedere Dent d'Aire shortly after La Carel. El Gringo Loco is a good introduction to the longer more exposed climbs in the...
Southern Crossing
Southern Crossing - Orabeskopf, Brandberg
5.11+, V. (South Africa Grade 25)
Climbed after five days of preparation at the end of May 2009, Southern Crossing begins by starting up the obvious right leaning ramp until it is possible to traverse directly left into the hanging corner system that forms the route.Majka...
Donnafugata
Donnafugata - Torre Trieste
8a
At the start of July 2007 Mauro Bubu Bole from Trieste made the first free ascent of Donnafugata, the 750m route first ascended by none other than Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli in summer 2004 up the massive vertical bastion...
Adieu Zidane
Adieu Zidane - Gorges du Verdon
6a+
Pleasant 100m climb located in the Zidane sector on the final outcrop of the Verdon Gorge, with great view onto Lac de Sainte-Croix. The route weaves its way past a series of overhangs in search of the weakest line up...
Trous Secs
Trous Secs - Gorges du Verdon
6c
Trous Secs is a pleasant route up pockets and "gouttes d'eau". The 6c crux pitch is technical and ascends a series of small holds with poor footholds. The final pitch is somewhat polished.
Piccolo Principe
Piccolo Principe - Punta di Larsei
7a+, R2/3. (ED+)
Piccolo Principe is a mix between traditional and modern: traditional for the protection (pegs and natural pro along the pitches, bolts on the belays), and modern due to the direct line which searches for the beauty of climbing up the...
Elixir Para Calvos
Elixir Para Calvos - Pena de Fresnidiello
V+ / VS (4c)
The most popular route on the crag and a great introduction to typical Picos climbing.  The difficulties are mostly low down, but a good eye for route finding is needed to keep you on track!
La Cepeda
La Cepeda - Naranjo de Bulnes (Pico Urriellu)
V+ / VS (4c)
The blank looking East Face of Naranjo de Bulnes is an intimidating yet inspiring objective.  Early starts are recommended as it’s easy to underestimate the length of the routes on this face.
South Face Direct Route
South Face Direct Route - Naranjo de Bulnes (Pico Urriellu)
V- / HS (4b)
The most popular route on Naranjo de Bulnes.  This, the original line of ascent, provides a classic outing on good rock in some stunning positions.  A steep but well protected start gradually eases off to more slabby rock that decreases...
L'Ange en Décomposition
L'Ange en Décomposition - Gorges du Verdon
7a
Another masterpiece by Philippe Maclé, "Ange" is one of the routes in the gorge. The rock quality is outstanding and the climb takes an extremely exposed line up the Fenrir prow with the entire Verdon void beneath your feet. Soloed...
The Nose
The Nose - El Capitan
5.13c or 5.9 A2
Possibly the most famous climb in the world, The Nose is the route. It marked the era of big wall climbing in Yosemite and is a true work of art; audacity and tenacity enabled the first ascentionists over a period...
Rêve de Fer
Rêve de Fer - Gorges du Verdon
6b+
Hailed as one of the best multi-pitches in the Verdon, Rêve de Fer is quite simply a must. The rock quality and ambience render this 4 pitch climb a truly unforgettable outing.
Surveiller et Punir
Surveiller et Punir - Gorges du Verdon
7a+
Fabulous 7a+ multi-pitch, one of the best and most photographed in the Verdon Gorge, first ascended in 1981 by Jean Marc Troussier. After a gentle first two pitches the route kicks in with a technical 7a+ crux, to finish in...
Kaos
Kaos - Monte Gallo
7c
Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.
Via Giovanni Segantini
Via Giovanni Segantini - Monte Colodri
6c+
On 19 September Massimo Antonini and Giampaolo Calzà completed the first ascent of Via Giovanni Segantini on the East Face of Monte Colodri, Arco, Italy. The route pays homage to both the 1858 Arco born artist and the art of...


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