Camaleontica - Punta Cusidore
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Camaleontica: Maurizio Oviglia pitch 7, Punta Cusidore
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia e Luca Giupponi, 14 & 21/06/2010. RP: M. Oviglia & R. Larcher 21/06/2010
By
Rolando Larcher
Orientation
North
Length
290m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c+
Nice and demanding climb, predominantly up cracks, to the left of "Umbras". The route reached the final belay of Umbras and terminates here.
Getting there
From Nuoro drive to Oliena, from Funtana Iscandula reach Preda ‘e Littu and then follow the path which leads to the classic route up the Punta Cusidore arete. Access
From the start of the NW arete up Punta Cusidore, coast beneath the north face and start at the highest point. To the right there are some old bolts (attempt Piras-Scema 1996). Start to the left, on the highest point of the grassy scramble. Descent
Abseil down Umbras or 4 abseils down the route. Two 60m ropes are absolutely necessary! Gear
In-situ gear: three pegs along the pitches, pegs and threads for abseils at the belays. Take two sets of camming devices up to 3BD, one 4BD, nuts, kevlar threads, two 60m ropes. Notes
All pitches, except for the 6th, were climbed on-sight during the first ascent.
From Nuoro drive to Oliena, from Funtana Iscandula reach Preda ‘e Littu and then follow the path which leads to the classic route up the Punta Cusidore arete. Access
From the start of the NW arete up Punta Cusidore, coast beneath the north face and start at the highest point. To the right there are some old bolts (attempt Piras-Scema 1996). Start to the left, on the highest point of the grassy scramble. Descent
Abseil down Umbras or 4 abseils down the route. Two 60m ropes are absolutely necessary! Gear
In-situ gear: three pegs along the pitches, pegs and threads for abseils at the belays. Take two sets of camming devices up to 3BD, one 4BD, nuts, kevlar threads, two 60m ropes. Notes
All pitches, except for the 6th, were climbed on-sight during the first ascent.
Comments
15/07/2010 Guglielmo IL PRES
Molto bene!!! bravi ragazzi, sembra davvero una gran bella via. Mi piacerebbe "provare" un po'di trad sul calcare...chissà . Complimenti ancora, bel lavoro.
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia e Luca Giupponi, 14 & 21/06/2010. RP: M. Oviglia & R. Larcher 21/06/2010
By
Rolando Larcher
Orientation
North
Length
290m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c+
Routes in the same mountain group
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