Icterus - First Sella Tower
Beautiful route which offers technical and pumpy climbing up good to excellent rock. In 2009 the two mountain guides Alberto De Giuli and Renato Bernard re-equipped the routes with bolts, at times run-out, while the third pitch now ascends direct instead of traversing off.
The first pitch had originally been bolted after a first, ground-up attempt by Eisendle with trad pro.
Reach Passo Sella from either Val Gardena or Val di Fassa.
Access15 minutes from Passo Sella. The route starts as for Via Tissi.
ItineraryP1: 6c+, 35m
p2: 6a+, 25m
P3: 6c+, 25m
P4: 5c, 35m
P5: 5c, 20m
P6: 6a, 20m
Teh scramble up to the ledge used by the normal route.
Either walk down the normal route or abseil down the line of ascent.
Gear11 quickdraws and a set of mid-siz camming devices. One 70m rope is sufficient, even for the abseils.