Via Sandro Pertini - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
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Via Sandro Pertini
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
f.a. Umberto Marampon & Renato Piovesan 09/1981. f.f.a. Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek 07/2010
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
250m
Difficulty
7c
Route
Highly recommended route up the cold West Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, up surprisingly good rock and with all the makings of a modern alpine classic.
Although first ascended as late as the 1980's, it falls in the category of techno-direttisimas and was freed in summer 2010 by the visiting Slovenian climbers Krajnc and Grmovšek who climbed the line in 6 pitches making use of the original, in-sito gear.
Although first ascended as late as the 1980's, it falls in the category of techno-direttisimas and was freed in summer 2010 by the visiting Slovenian climbers Krajnc and Grmovšek who climbed the line in 6 pitches making use of the original, in-sito gear.
Getting there
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From Rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. Start left of big tower, about 15m left of Via Dülfer, and follow slings, pitons and bolts. Itinerary
P1: 6b, 35m
P2: 6a+, 50m
P3: 6a, 55m
P4: 7c, 35m
P5: 5c, 30m
P6: 6a, 25m Descent
Descend down the classic descent route or abseil down the nearby Via Marco Zambelli Franz. Gear
The route is mostly bolt protected (old Cassin bolts), but take a set of friends and nuts for supplementary protection.
The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo. Access
From Rifugio Auronzo walk up the scree-filled gully which lies between the Cima Ovest and the Cima Grande. Start left of big tower, about 15m left of Via Dülfer, and follow slings, pitons and bolts. Itinerary
P1: 6b, 35m
P2: 6a+, 50m
P3: 6a, 55m
P4: 7c, 35m
P5: 5c, 30m
P6: 6a, 25m Descent
Descend down the classic descent route or abseil down the nearby Via Marco Zambelli Franz. Gear
The route is mostly bolt protected (old Cassin bolts), but take a set of friends and nuts for supplementary protection.
Comments
06/08/2010 Umberto Marampon
Sono Berto Marampon. Faccio i complimenti alla cordata che ha effettuato la prima salita in libera. Non so se altri ripetitori abbiano piantato spit; noi l'abbiamo aperta con chiodi normali e a pressione,infissi a suon di martellate,con tempi dai 5 ai 35 minuti,in relaz alla posizione e alla roccia
Beauty
First ascent
f.a. Umberto Marampon & Renato Piovesan 09/1981. f.f.a. Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek 07/2010
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
250m
Difficulty
7c
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
05/08/2010 - Climbing
Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo by Krajnc and Grmovsek In July Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out the first free ascent of the route Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.