The routesClimbing routes
A piede libero - Corna delle Quattro Matte
7c+
Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we...
Alien - Presolana Centrale
7a+
Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties...
Baba Jaga - Pinnacolo di Maslana
V 6a A2+
4 pitch aid climb up Pinnacolo di Maslana. Probably the first modern aid climb in the valleys above Bergamo in Northern Italy.
Dall'alba al tramonto - Presolana Centrale
6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II
Demanding route that requires experience in placing natural pro. During the first repeat four bolts were added to protect the exposed sections.
Delta Minox - Val Masino Pilastro del Scingino
7a+, A1 4p.a.
One of the most coveted climbs in the Central Alps, it represented a huge leap in terms of quality in Val Masino and even today is often considered one of the most difficult slab climbs in the Alps. A series...
El despertador fotonico - Escudo del Qualido - Val Qualido
7b
Established in autumn 2019, El Despertador Fotonico is the latest addition to Escudo del Qualido. It tackles a line on the righthand side and was climbed ground-up with trad gear where possible and is otherwise equipped with 10 mm stainless...
Here today gone tomorrow - Scoglio delle Metamorfosi - Val di Mello
X-
A logical sequence of slender cracks to the left of Io non ho paura up the Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. In 2014 Pietro Biasini, Daniele Bianchi and Mirko Masè established the first seven pitches, in November 2015 Bianchi and Masé completed...
I sogni di Baku - Corno Gioià
TD+ VII max. R2+/III
Opened ground-up, the new route I sogni di Baku - Baku's dreams - is a demanding climb in a grandiose and solitary setting. The route breaches the compact granite slabs and vertical cracked corners to reach the red summit tower.Despite...
Ich liebe dich - Dente di Mezzaluna
V/VI
The route is located on the lefthand side of the bastion that dominates Valtronella, Pizzo di Mezzaluna, in the Orobie Alps.
Il colpo di coda - Presolana
7a+, S3 I
Demanding rock climb up excellent rock, with 9 stainless steel bolts up the pitches + bolts at the belays with abseil rings. The first bolt is located at circa 30m height and tied off with an orange sling.
La Divina Commedia - Buco del Piombo
8b+
"The steepest multi-pitch climb I’ve ever established!" This is how Simone Pedeferri describes La Divina Commedia, the fascinating climb at Buco del Piombo in Valle Bova in Northern Italy together with another Ragni di Lecco member, Luca Schiera. Pedeferri’s words...
La Scala del Cielo - Monte Scale - Torri di Fraele
5c
Pleasant easy route up weathered rock that climbs compact slabs, corners and short walls. Set in a unique and impressive ambient, this route has been equipped and carefully cleaned and is ideal for beginners.
La Vedova Nera - Stella Marina - Val di Mello
VII+
Few words are needed to describe one of the most beautiful and feared routes in Val di Mello. For those who love friction climbing, the black widow is a highly prized rock climb. A true Vitali valley masterpiece.
Luna Nascente - Scoglio delle Metamorfosi - Val di Mello
VII
Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe....
Maleficent - Cimone della Bagozza
7c+, RS4
Maleficent tackles the the central section of the NW Face, climbing the compact slabs using a more modern approach than the older routes. It was climbed ground-up with a mix of pegs and a few bolts placed where rests were...
Mani di Fata - Alkekengi - Val di Mello
VII
One of the most beautiful slab routes in the entire Val di Mello, even if the long run-outs put off numerous parties. Recently rebolted. Excellent rock. The third pitch is slightly exposed.
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