Il colpo di coda - Presolana
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Stefano Codazzi
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Il colpo di coda: Preparations at the base of the route
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Daniele Natali & Stefano Codazzi 22/09/2012. FFA: Daniele Natali, Carlo Cortinovis 06/10/2012
By
Stefano Codazzi
Orientation
South
Length
160m
Difficulty
7a+, S3 I
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
Demanding rock climb up excellent rock, with 9 stainless steel bolts up the pitches + bolts at the belays with abseil rings. The first bolt is located at circa 30m height and tied off with an orange sling.
Access
1,40 hours from Passo della Presolana, ascend 15m up the gully which separates the Bramani pillar from the rest of the face. Thread and tat at 5m. Itinerary
P1: 6c+, 40m
P2: 6c, 35m
P3: 6b+, 25m
P4: 5a, 25m
P5: 7a+, 35m Descent
Abseil down the route, skip P4 and clip the first bolt on P5. Gear
2 x 60m ropes, a full rack of Aliens (or similar camming devices), plus 2BD, kevlar and carabiners for the threads and small tricam. Notes
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.
1,40 hours from Passo della Presolana, ascend 15m up the gully which separates the Bramani pillar from the rest of the face. Thread and tat at 5m. Itinerary
P1: 6c+, 40m
P2: 6c, 35m
P3: 6b+, 25m
P4: 5a, 25m
P5: 7a+, 35m Descent
Abseil down the route, skip P4 and clip the first bolt on P5. Gear
2 x 60m ropes, a full rack of Aliens (or similar camming devices), plus 2BD, kevlar and carabiners for the threads and small tricam. Notes
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.
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Beauty
First ascent
Daniele Natali & Stefano Codazzi 22/09/2012. FFA: Daniele Natali, Carlo Cortinovis 06/10/2012
By
Stefano Codazzi
Orientation
South
Length
160m
Difficulty
7a+, S3 I
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
11/10/2012 - Alpinism
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali On 22/09/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent of Il colpo di coda (7a+, 160m) up the South Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Natali who...