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Alien - Presolana Centrale

Italy>Lombardy>Rhaetian Alps>Presolana>Presolana Centrale

Stefano Codazzi

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Alien

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Beauty

First ascent

Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 11/08/2012. First free ascent: Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 30/08/2012

Stefano Codazzi

Orientation

South

Length

150m

Height

2250m

Difficulty

7a+

Obligatory difficulty

(6c obl) S3 I

Route

Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties up to 7a+ (6c obligatory). Bolts are few and far between and the insitu gear needs integrating with Alien camming devices which slot neatly in to the numerous pockets. Twin-bolt belays, abseil down the route.

Access
Reach the Presolana pass (1297m) at Castione della Presolana. From here continue along path #315 towards malga Cassinelli, at this hut continue up the steep path which leads to the obvious base of the South Face (2100m). From here traverse circa 150m right to the start of the route (route name at the base). 1:45 from the car park. Itinerary
P1: 5c, 45m
P2: 7a+, 40m
P3: 6b+, 25m
P4: 7a+, 40m Descent
Abseil down the route or down the nearby Yook Yook. Gear
14 x 10mm bolts, all belays twin-bolts. For a repeat: 2 x 60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, kevlar threads, set of Alien + #2 & 3 BD (or set of BD to 3+ set of nuts) Notes
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support.