I sogni di Baku - Corno Gioià
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Gianni Tomasoni
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I sogni di Baku
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Sibilla Bariani, Gianni Tomasoni 2-13/08/2013
By
Gianni Tomasoni
Orientation
SE
Length
300m
Height
3050m
Difficulty
TD+ VII max. R2+/III
Obligatory difficulty
VI+
Period
From July to September
Route
Opened ground-up, the new route I sogni di Baku - Baku's dreams - is a demanding climb in a grandiose and solitary setting. The route breaches the compact granite slabs and vertical cracked corners to reach the red summit tower.
Despite being equipped with pegs and bolts, the route should not be considered modern climb; you really do need how to place natural pro and, given its setting and long approach, is recommend to competent alpine parties.
The route was climbed in memory of Rocco Belingheri.
Despite being equipped with pegs and bolts, the route should not be considered modern climb; you really do need how to place natural pro and, given its setting and long approach, is recommend to competent alpine parties.
The route was climbed in memory of Rocco Belingheri.
Getting there
Val Adamè can be reached from Brescia or Bergamo via Valcamonica. Reach the village Cedegolo and turn off right at the fork for Valle and Fresine. After the village of Valle reach the hamlet La Rasega, then take the road up past a series of hairpin bends to Malga Lincino (park at the cable car). Itinerary
P1: V + 55m
P2: VII 55m
P3: V+ 45m
P4: V+ 35m
P5: VI+ 35m
P6: VI+ 30m
P7: VI 25m
P8: VI+ 20m Descent
Abseil down the line of ascent (see topo) Gear
Full mountain rack. 10 quickdraws, a set of Friends from Micro - 3 B.D., 2 x 60m ropes. Belays with two bolts, 8mm and 10mm with maillon rapide for the abseils. 8mm bolts and pegs in-situ on the pitches. Notes
Thanks to the volunteers at Baita Adame' who helped us with their logistical support. And thanks to our friend Roby for the gear he kindly provided.
Val Adamè can be reached from Brescia or Bergamo via Valcamonica. Reach the village Cedegolo and turn off right at the fork for Valle and Fresine. After the village of Valle reach the hamlet La Rasega, then take the road up past a series of hairpin bends to Malga Lincino (park at the cable car). Itinerary
P1: V + 55m
P2: VII 55m
P3: V+ 45m
P4: V+ 35m
P5: VI+ 35m
P6: VI+ 30m
P7: VI 25m
P8: VI+ 20m Descent
Abseil down the line of ascent (see topo) Gear
Full mountain rack. 10 quickdraws, a set of Friends from Micro - 3 B.D., 2 x 60m ropes. Belays with two bolts, 8mm and 10mm with maillon rapide for the abseils. 8mm bolts and pegs in-situ on the pitches. Notes
Thanks to the volunteers at Baita Adame' who helped us with their logistical support. And thanks to our friend Roby for the gear he kindly provided.
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Beauty
First ascent
Sibilla Bariani, Gianni Tomasoni 2-13/08/2013
By
Gianni Tomasoni
Orientation
SE
Length
300m
Height
3050m
Difficulty
TD+ VII max. R2+/III
Obligatory difficulty
VI+
Period
From July to September
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
19/09/2013 - Alpinism
New Adamello rock climb by Tomasoni and Bariani In August 2013 Gianni Tomasoni and Sibilla Bariani made the frist ascent of "I sogni di Baku" (VII 300m), a new rock climb up the SE Face of Corno Gioià...