A piede libero - Corna delle Quattro Matte
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Giangi Angeloni
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A piede libero
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Established between 2009 - 2012. First free ascent Giangi Angeloni (CAAI) and Daniele Calegari.
By
Giangi Angeloni
Orientation
South
Length
280m + 50m scramble to summit
Height
2240m
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Period
From May to October. Afternoon mists not uncommon.
Route
Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we hung from cliff we drilled bolts or placed kevlar in the threads which proved difficult to place with one hand only). A piede libero is recommended to those who have plenty of experience at placing trad gear (the first ascentionists did not use any pegs). The rock on pitches a and 3 isn't the most stable, but otherwise is fantastic and, in the upper half, exceptional.
Access
Park the car at Passo della Presolana (1300m) and follow the path for Monte Visolo. The last section of this walk offers sweeping views over the North Face. Reach the summit (1000m height gain circa) then descend north slightly and continue right along the “Via Ferrata della Porta”. Descend for circa 15 minutes to reach the grassy shoulder which leads to the Quattro matte towers (the profile of the face can be seen here; camping possible). Descend steep slopes to the col, then continue diagonally right down the slops and rocky scramble to reach the base of the South Face, to the right of the enormous overhanging cavern which is always wet (1900m, 400m descent from the summit of Visolo). In total 2.5 hours walk.
Start: the route starts below a yellow corner (in-situ nut at the base). Itinerary
L1: 6c, 45m
L2: 6c, 25m
L3: 7a+, 35m
L4: 7b, 40m.
L5: 7c+, 45m
L6: 6c, 15m
L7: 6b+, 35m
L8: 7b, 40m
From here scramble 50m up to the summit via rocks and the steep grassy slope (remain tied-in). Descent
Abseil down the route, skipping belays 6 and 1.
Park the car at Passo della Presolana (1300m) and follow the path for Monte Visolo. The last section of this walk offers sweeping views over the North Face. Reach the summit (1000m height gain circa) then descend north slightly and continue right along the “Via Ferrata della Porta”. Descend for circa 15 minutes to reach the grassy shoulder which leads to the Quattro matte towers (the profile of the face can be seen here; camping possible). Descend steep slopes to the col, then continue diagonally right down the slops and rocky scramble to reach the base of the South Face, to the right of the enormous overhanging cavern which is always wet (1900m, 400m descent from the summit of Visolo). In total 2.5 hours walk.
Start: the route starts below a yellow corner (in-situ nut at the base). Itinerary
L1: 6c, 45m
L2: 6c, 25m
L3: 7a+, 35m
L4: 7b, 40m.
L5: 7c+, 45m
L6: 6c, 15m
L7: 6b+, 35m
L8: 7b, 40m
From here scramble 50m up to the summit via rocks and the steep grassy slope (remain tied-in). Descent
Abseil down the route, skipping belays 6 and 1.
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Beauty
First ascent
Established between 2009 - 2012. First free ascent Giangi Angeloni (CAAI) and Daniele Calegari.
By
Giangi Angeloni
Orientation
South
Length
280m + 50m scramble to summit
Height
2240m
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Period
From May to October. Afternoon mists not uncommon.
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
08/10/2012 - Alpinism
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012...