Luna Nascente - Scoglio delle Metamorfosi - Val di Mello

From Milan take the SS36 towards Sondrio-Tirano. At the village Ardenno (after Morbegno), head up into Val Masino. From here a typical moutnain road leads in 15 minutes to San Martino, the starting point for all climbs in Val di Mello.

P1: ascend to the small overhang; breach this via a chimney on the left which leads to a belay beneath the large flake (VII; 20m)
P2: climb a section of the chimney on the left, then head right and follow all the beautiful crack-lined roof to its end. Belay immediately after the roof (VII-; 20m)
P3: follow the beautiful crack and, after this bears right, traverse to quickly reach a short ledge (V+; 30m)
Pitches 2 and 3 are usually joined into one pitch to avoid to uncomfortable belay above the roof.
P4: continue up the cracks above and then along the flake and crack. Belay on the spike on the right (VI; 40m)
P5: climb the weathered slab and continue past the small roof by avoiding this on the right; follow the cracks above to reach the terrace (VI-; 40m)
P6: climb the cracks and shallow corner to reach the half-moon roof (l’Occhio del falco - the falcon's eye); traverse left to the slings (spike); descend to reach the flake and then continue up left up hidden cracks; climb these to the pulpit (VI-; 40m)
P7: ascend the long and beautiful crack to reach the small plant (V; 50m)

- Masino Bregaglia, Regno del granito, Volume II, by Andrea Gaddi. Polaris Ed. Sondrio. 2009.
- Solo Granito, Masino Bregaglia Disgrazia. Arrampicate classiche e moderne by Versante Sud