The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

17
Routes in archive
Altro che in Scozia
Altro che in Scozia - Monte Cogliàns
WI4, M4, 85°obbl. p. 90°, TD
Mixed climb up the North Face of Monte Cogliàns that starts circa 200m to the left of the via ferrata Klettersteig der 26er (quota 2300 m ca.) and to the right of the route Koban-Prunner.
Ben Gassa
Ben Gassa - Hochgasser
M5/M6, WI5
Ben Gassa was first ascended by the Austrian Mountain Guides Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini on 16/11/2012 with difficulties up to M5/M6, WI5, following a gully and line 50m to the right of Hauptgully.
Burgsteinfall
Burgsteinfall - Ötztal
WI5/6
The Burgsteinfall is a very popular icefall in the Ötztal, ideal to get a feel for 6 grade ice. The Burgsteinfall is one of the most popular ice climbs in the Ötztal thanks to its easy access and the...
Dripping Elegance
Dripping Elegance - Ötztal
M10/WI5+
An an elegant three pitch mixed route above Köfels. Bolts were placed on-lead on 26 December 2010, and the route was subsequently redpointed on 2 January by both Leichtfried and Fiegl.
El Nino
El Nino - Hochgasser
M7
A "mega mixed line" first ascended by Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer on 2, 4 and 5 January 2016 and then climbed free on 7/01/2016.
Gorillas im Nebel
Gorillas im Nebel
M10/WI6
The setting for Gorillas im Nebel is awesome, wedged between the dark, mighty granite walls and the bizarre ice drips. A dreamline which, despite being mixed, has a high percentage of water ice.
Hängende Gärten
Hängende Gärten - Sellraintal
WI6
First ascended by Tyrolean ice climbing legend Andreas Orgler, Hängende Gärten is the classic ice fall in Tyrol, fullstop. An important chapter in Tyrol's ice climbing history was written in 1988 when Orgler made the first ascent and the...
Hauptgully
Hauptgully - Hochgasser
M4, 60°
Interesting ice and mixed climb first ascended alone by Isidor Poppeller in autumn 2011.
Krönung
Krönung - Zillertal
WI6
Long and serious icefall which offers some of the finest ice climbing ever. Watch out for falling ice on pitch 3. Exact timing is crucial for a successful ascent as ice seldom forms along the entire line. Do not underestimate...
Mayerlrampe
Mayerlrampe - Grossglockner
60°ice, III rock
Mayerlrampe gets its name from legendary East Tirolean alpinist Sepp Blasl Mayerl who made the first ascent of this spectacular line together with H. Lindner and H. Messner in 1967. Since Blasl's first ascent - also known as Reinhold Messner's...
Mehr denn je Hintersee
Mehr denn je Hintersee - Hochbirghöhe
M7+ WI6+
An absolutely amazing climb, comparable to many long famous alpine outings. With its thick ice column, narrow gully, thin drip and steep mixed climbing, Mehr denn je Hintersee has it all!
Monsterline
Monsterline - Pitztal
WI6
Monsterline is a long and demanding icefall. After a 'warm-up' on the first two pitches the monster awaits on the upper section with continues vertical climbing.The route owes its name to this upper section: the gigantic ice formation, almost always...
Pallavicinirinne
Pallavicinirinne - Großglockner
55° ice, IV° rock
The first ascent of the Pallavicinirinne in 1876 marked an important moment in the   history of alpinism and the Pallavicini Coloir is the first and also the most famous route up the North face of the Grossglockner. Facing Northeast, it...
The usual suspects
The usual suspects - Alraunewand
WI7-, M7, A2
The first three pitches are difficult and psychologically demanding, up thin ice smears and ice mushrooms up to 95°. These are followed by a difficult 4m roof with some suspended drips. This is crowned by a vertical face and another...
Triple A
Triple A - Alraunewand
M9 (WI7-, M7, A1)
A perfect, highly selective line up the Alraunewand. The route shares some belays and some short sections of some nearby summer routes, established by  the first ascentionists of this winter route. Triple A was established ground-up and without checking out...
Umbaltal Eisarena
Umbaltal Eisarena

Thanks to the large number of ice and mixed routes of all grades, all located close to one another, the Eisarena Umbaltal will soon develop into one of the top mixed and ice climbing areas in the Tirol


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