The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

340
Routes in archive
Senza Nome
Senza Nome - Col Pelous
WI 4+/M
The "unnamed icefall" is located to the right of the classic "Rio Pelous". Climb the first pitch up a chimney/gully past a wedged tree trunk and continue up a further two pitches of weathered ice. The route is clearly visible...
Vernel Gully
Vernel Gully - Marmolada - Vernel
WI 4/ M/ R/II
A great gully set in a quiet and beautiful environment which is reminiscent of the gullies in the Western Alps, more than the classic icefalls in the Dolomites. The route alternates vertical ice, short snow patches and mixed sections which...
La bizzarra
La bizzarra - Col Pelous
WI 6+/M 8+
A beautiful and psychologically demanding outing as many sections require trad gear for protection... This latest addition to the valley, during a Mountain Guide training course in 2011, offers difficult ice and delicate mixed climbing!
Agghiacciante
Agghiacciante - Col Pelous
WI 6/M8
A beautiful three-pitch ice climb which climbs the right-hand side of the drip, alternating delicate mixed sections with difficult ice.
Vecioti e Zovenoti
Vecioti e Zovenoti - Col Pelous
WI 5
Vecioti e Zovenoti offers two fun and varied pitches; drips and vertical ice at the start provide beautiful moves in search of the easiest line, while the angle eases off on the second pitch but the ice becomes thinner and...
Fluido Giallo
Fluido Giallo - Col Pelous
WI 5/ M6
Fluido Giallo is an elegant three-pitch outing which can easily be combined with the classic Rio Pelous.
Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem
Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem - Col Pelous
WI 5/M6
Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem is a fun and very beautiful three-pitch ice climb. After an easy first slabby pitch the icefall steepens and alternates delicate mixed sections with vertical, articulated ice. A bolt and peg were placed on the...
Grotta di Pian
Grotta di Pian - Val Duron
D4 / M11+
The Grotta di Pian was bolted by Mario Prinoth and Renato Bernard, with the help of other local climbers. It is is an ideal training venue for bigger climbs in the mountains and to learn the subtleties of "dry-tooling". The...
Solo per i tuoi occhi
Solo per i tuoi occhi - Monte Pelmo
V, WI 5+ XRM
The marvellous icefall which falls directly down from the so-called Pelmo "throne" is impossible to ignore when driving up from Zoppè di Cadore or walking towards Rifugio Venezia A. De Luca (1946m). The icefall requires perfect temperatures due to its...
Il regalo della Befana
Il regalo della Befana - Santo Stefano di Cadore
II/4
Interesting and fun drip at the start of Val Grande in a quiet setting. Although the route was climbed in two pitches, we suggest the second pitch is split into two.
Dripping Elegance
Dripping Elegance - Ötztal
M10/WI5+
An an elegant three pitch mixed route above Köfels. Bolts were placed on-lead on 26 December 2010, and the route was subsequently redpointed on 2 January by both Leichtfried and Fiegl.
Scharf, mit alles...
Scharf, mit alles... - Gasterntal
WI6 M8
Scharf, mit alles… is an interesting and unusual ice climb for the Bernese Oberland,  with almost 600m of vertical height gain (and 1000m of climbing) it is one of the longest climbs of this genre in the Alps, ascending four...
Cascata Con il sole in poppa
Cascata Con il sole in poppa - Monte Cristallo
II, WI 5
Splendid icefall which rarely forms, clearly visible from the Tre Croci pass and the car park at Rio Gere.
Cascata Per Leo
Cascata Per Leo - Croda Marcora
IV, WI 5+ XR
Clearly visible from the SS51 Alemagna road which leads to Cortina d'Ampezzo, the Cascata Per Leo is an aesthetically perfect line which, when formed, attracts the gaze of all ice climbers. Due to the fact that it rarely comes into...
Ciao TFR
Ciao TFR
III/4
Short climb up a nice drip on the second pitch, in the unique Piantonetto surroundings. The climb necessitates long cold spells to come into condition. Those wishing to continue can combine it with the nearby route Incontro Generazionale.Details about a...
Cascata delle miniere
Cascata delle miniere
V/3+ - 4/R
A route which rarely comes into condition. The ice is thin in places and this renders the climb demanding despite the fact that there are few vertical sections. The route faces south, takes a line up massive rock gradients and...


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