The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

331
Routes in archive
Hauptgully
Hauptgully - Hochgasser
M4, 60°
Interesting ice and mixed climb first ascended alone by Isidor Poppeller in autumn 2011.
Full Love... for dry and ice
Full Love... for dry and ice - Aiguille du Peigne
V, 5+,M6 R
This winter outing, described by Griffith as "simply awesome" follows the upper half of a very rarely – if ever - repeated British route established in summer 1967 by James Fullalove and Brian Robertson with the use of difficult aid...
Cosmiques Arête
Cosmiques Arête - Aguille du Midi
II, AD, 4a.
The Cosmiques Arête is one of the most famous and popular climbs in the Mont Blanc massif, and quite rightly so. Excellent granite, exposure, incredible scenery and mid-grade mixed climbing (with some challenging sections thrown in) are the ingredients of...
Mayerlrampe
Mayerlrampe - Grossglockner
60°ice, III rock
Mayerlrampe gets its name from legendary East Tirolean alpinist Sepp Blasl Mayerl who made the first ascent of this spectacular line together with H. Lindner and H. Messner in 1967. Since Blasl's first ascent - also known as Reinhold Messner's...
Pallavicinirinne
Pallavicinirinne - Großglockner
55° ice, IV° rock
The first ascent of the Pallavicinirinne in 1876 marked an important moment in the   history of alpinism and the Pallavicini Coloir is the first and also the most famous route up the North face of the Grossglockner. Facing Northeast, it...
Fratelli e Cortelli
Fratelli e Cortelli - Pietragrande
6
Beautiful ice and mixed climb in fantastic surroundings, with a spectacular view onto the  Grostè pistes and then, on the summit, the view down into the enchanting, wild Val di Tovel. The ice gully comes into condition almost every year...
Depravation
Depravation - Presanella
TD+/ED- WI 5 M6 VI+ A1/2
Climbing this route was extremely satisfying, it's only five pitches high but all are extremely beautiful, difficult and different, the rock is always splendid and the scenery is grandiose.The conditions were relatively good, with a thin ice vein on pitches...
Bambi
Bambi
5+/6 M9
Bambi is situated in a grandiose environment, extremely wild and isolated. The extenuating approach, the 300m climb and long descent render this more an alpine outing than a sport climb. There is plenty of potential for further routes thanks above...
Zia Mia
Zia Mia - Forra del Vinadia
WI 5+
4 March 2010: “A new icefall has been discovered in the Vinadia canyon. It seems incredible that no one ever noticed such ice formations so close to home, or at least, that no ice climber ever took a closer look!”...
Alice in Wonderland
Alice in Wonderland - Forra del Vinadia
WI 4
Short but highly satisfying icefall in an enchanting, magical environment with two pools of water inside the canyon.
Cinderella
Cinderella - Forra del Vinadia
M8+/M9
A bolted mixed pitch with a fair bit of ice. The traverse is demanding and delicate.
Zanna Bianca
Zanna Bianca - Forra del Vinadia
WI 7- M7+
An exceptional, beautiful route with a psychologically difficult start followed by a difficult crux on the icefall itself. After this the pro improves and the drip offers some good rests, but the climbing should not be underestimated. The exit is...
Trip terapia
Trip terapia - Forra del Vinadia
WI 7-XRM
A large detached drip offers a brief mixed section. The drip above is difficult to protect. The route seems easier than it really is!
Alice in Wonderland
Alice in Wonderland - Presanella
TD M5+/A0 and snow max 75°
Demanding mixed route established in winter which breaches demanding sections of mixed rock and ice in search of the line obvious line of weakness in a wild and solitary environment. The route requires stable snow conditions and a long cold...
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge - Mont Maudit
IV / D / 55°
One of the most beautiful and classic ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, set in the magnificent high altitude ambient. Varied, up mixed terrain and with snowy sections that are deciedly knife-edge and airy (Gino Buscaini).Were we to define...
Goulotte del Pioda
Goulotte del Pioda - Monte Pioda - Val di Mello
III/WI2R (75°)
Goulotte del Pioda is a fun climb, with moderate difficulties, clearly visible from Val di Mello. In spring it is usually in good condition and the hardest section is the start, which appeared circa 20 years ago when the Pioda...


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