Grotta di Pian - Val Duron
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Tommaso Cardelli
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Grotta di Pian: Grotta di Pian, Val di Fassa, Val Duron, Dolomites (ph arch. T. Cardelli)
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Various
By
Tommaso Cardelli
Length
SSE
Difficulty
D4 / M11+
The Grotta di Pian was bolted by Mario Prinoth and Renato Bernard, with the help of other local climbers. It is is an ideal training venue for bigger climbs in the mountains and to learn the subtleties of "dry-tooling". The routes are fully equipped, the sun is guaranteed all day long and cave is located in relaxing and beautiful surroundings. Thanks to the huge variety of routes on offer the cave is ideal for both beginners and experts. Take particular care when judging the solidity of the central drip, above all on warm days! A helmet is obligatory!
Getting there
Campitello di Fassa. From Campitello di Fassa (Tn) drive to the entrance of Val Duron and park the car. Access
Walk 50m along the road which leads into Valle Duron to reach the water board building. From here follow the path to the right of the building and reach the forest road, close to a bridge, which leads down from Pian. Continue coasting the river to reach the cave (15 minutes). Itinerary
Routes (from below, before reaching the cave):
Senza nome: D4. Easy slab
Yaniroquay: D6. Series of pumpy roofs
Night event: WI 5/M 30m. New drip which was first ascended during a pre-Christmas party... Very beautiful! The route follows an almost continuous line of ice, but is bolt protected.
Attraverso Pian: D8. great traverse, constantly overhanging!
For Wirpke: D7+. Technical start, followed by pumpy finish.
Ospiti: D7. Excellent warm-up.
Senza nome: P1 D7, P2 D9. A technical start is followed by a pumpy roof
Albertina: M11+. Beautiful pitch which crosses the entire cave to reach the hanging drip
Per la Madonna: M10. A absolute must!!
Marlene: D9. Nice little pitch up the side of the cave...
Iris: D5+. Beautiful slab Gear
Full ice climbing rack. 60m rope, 10 quickdraws, some ice screws. A helmet is obligatory! Notes
Take particular care when judging the solidity of the central drip, above all on warm days! A helmet is obligatory!
Campitello di Fassa. From Campitello di Fassa (Tn) drive to the entrance of Val Duron and park the car. Access
Walk 50m along the road which leads into Valle Duron to reach the water board building. From here follow the path to the right of the building and reach the forest road, close to a bridge, which leads down from Pian. Continue coasting the river to reach the cave (15 minutes). Itinerary
Routes (from below, before reaching the cave):
Senza nome: D4. Easy slab
Yaniroquay: D6. Series of pumpy roofs
Night event: WI 5/M 30m. New drip which was first ascended during a pre-Christmas party... Very beautiful! The route follows an almost continuous line of ice, but is bolt protected.
Attraverso Pian: D8. great traverse, constantly overhanging!
For Wirpke: D7+. Technical start, followed by pumpy finish.
Ospiti: D7. Excellent warm-up.
Senza nome: P1 D7, P2 D9. A technical start is followed by a pumpy roof
Albertina: M11+. Beautiful pitch which crosses the entire cave to reach the hanging drip
Per la Madonna: M10. A absolute must!!
Marlene: D9. Nice little pitch up the side of the cave...
Iris: D5+. Beautiful slab Gear
Full ice climbing rack. 60m rope, 10 quickdraws, some ice screws. A helmet is obligatory! Notes
Take particular care when judging the solidity of the central drip, above all on warm days! A helmet is obligatory!
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Beauty
First ascent
Various
By
Tommaso Cardelli
Length
SSE
Difficulty
D4 / M11+
Routes in the same mountain group
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03/03/2011 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and dry tooling in the Val di Fassa, Dolomites Tommaso Cardelli introduces a series of classic and new ice climbs in the Valle di Fassa, right in the heart of the Italian Dolomites.