The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Alta tensione
II/5+
The route takes a line on the extreme righthand side of the drip. After a brief 7m vertical start follow a ramp right to the base of the vertical section. Climb another 5 or 6 meters and belay protected from...
Cheeky Monkeys - Coulm d'Mez
III/4+
It’s impossible to remain indifferent to this face. A beautiful icefall, climbed with a friend and extreme skiing veteran. A day crowned with the first ascent of the queen line of the face. Two impertinent monkeys on the only section...
Dent Blanche South Ridge - Wandfluegrat - Dent Blanche
AD
Dent Blanche is a beautiful mountain in Val d'Herens, in the canton of Valais in Switzerland, a pyramidal summit reached by four rock and snow ridges. The normal route that leads to the 4357m high summit is the South Ridge,...
East Face - Piz Buin - Piz Buin
WI 4+, M4
Highly logical mixed climb up the East Face of Piz Buin in the Silvretta massif. The climb is split into 3 sections: the couloir to reach the snowfield in the middle of the face, 4 pitches of snow and ice...
Fliehende Stürme
III 6-
One of the best icefalls in Switzerland. The three pitches are delicate, intricate and exposed, but nevertheless offer good protection.
Gondo Gully - Parete nascosta
II - M4 - 4
The ice gully forms in the large cleft on the Parete Nascosta to the left of the summer rock route Madame Babette. The route climbs up interesting mixed sections and the crux 4th pitch climbs through an overhang. Three of...
Hydrophobia
III 6
The masterline in the entire valley. In good conditions prepare for the queue. If the starting drip hasn't formed the route can still be climbed by starting up the bolted mixed line.
La stangata
III/5+
Climb the drip for circa 30m to where it changes angle. Belay in a niche to the left. Continue for a further 30m to reach the narrowest section of the icefall, where a belay is located with peg and bolt.
Lisslerenfall
IV 5
A fabulous route which often remains in condition when the Föhn has already rendered icefalls unsafe lower down the valley. The route offers dream climbing along all five pitches.
Risiko variation to Mostro di Avers - Thron - Val d'Avers
WI6/M7+
This variation climbs the lefthand drip and breaches the jutting roof. Curiously, during the first ascent a Swiss team comprised of Daniel Benz and Marcel Dettling happened to be in the same place at the same time. They chose a...
Ritter der Kokosnuß - Breitwangflue
M12, WI5
M12, WI5, 165m up the impressive Breitwangflue above the Swiss village of Kandersteg, established after numerous attempts spread out over the years, always ground-up and without bolts, protected with ice screws, pegs and nuts and friends. These are the main...
Scharf, mit alles... - Gasterntal
WI6 M8
Scharf, mit alles… is an interesting and unusual ice climb for the Bernese Oberland, with almost 600m of vertical height gain (and 1000m of climbing) it is one of the longest climbs of this genre in the Alps, ascending four...
Verschneidung
III 4-
Fantastic, pleasant and highly popular route as it is less extreme than other icefalls nearby.
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