The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

340
Routes in archive
Bambi
Bambi
5+/6 M9
Bambi is situated in a grandiose environment, extremely wild and isolated. The extenuating approach, the 300m climb and long descent render this more an alpine outing than a sport climb. There is plenty of potential for further routes thanks above...
Zia Mia
Zia Mia - Forra del Vinadia
WI 5+
4 March 2010: “A new icefall has been discovered in the Vinadia canyon. It seems incredible that no one ever noticed such ice formations so close to home, or at least, that no ice climber ever took a closer look!”...
Alice in Wonderland
Alice in Wonderland - Forra del Vinadia
WI 4
Short but highly satisfying icefall in an enchanting, magical environment with two pools of water inside the canyon.
Cinderella
Cinderella - Forra del Vinadia
M8+/M9
A bolted mixed pitch with a fair bit of ice. The traverse is demanding and delicate.
Zanna Bianca
Zanna Bianca - Forra del Vinadia
WI 7- M7+
An exceptional, beautiful route with a psychologically difficult start followed by a difficult crux on the icefall itself. After this the pro improves and the drip offers some good rests, but the climbing should not be underestimated. The exit is...
Trip terapia
Trip terapia - Forra del Vinadia
WI 7-XRM
A large detached drip offers a brief mixed section. The drip above is difficult to protect. The route seems easier than it really is!
Alice in Wonderland
Alice in Wonderland - Presanella
TD M5+/A0 and snow max 75°
Demanding mixed route established in winter which breaches demanding sections of mixed rock and ice in search of the line obvious line of weakness in a wild and solitary environment. The route requires stable snow conditions and a long cold...
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge - Mont Maudit
IV / D / 55°
One of the most beautiful and classic ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, set in the magnificent high altitude ambient. Varied, up mixed terrain and with snowy sections that are deciedly knife-edge and airy (Gino Buscaini).Were we to define...
Goulotte del Pioda
Goulotte del Pioda - Monte Pioda - Val di Mello
III/WI2R (75°)
Goulotte del Pioda is a fun climb, with moderate difficulties, clearly visible from Val di Mello. In spring it is usually in good condition and the hardest section is the start, which appeared circa 20 years ago when the Pioda...
Tsunami
Tsunami - Mt Patterson
M5 WI5+
A classic alpine ice route established in May 2011: three very alpine like pitches with thin ice and scrappy mixed climbing led to another three  three sustained ice pitches and the top of the seracs. The route finishes on the...
Piantobaldo
Piantobaldo - Presolana
WI4 M7 A1
"Piantobaldo" was the name Bruno "Camos” Tassi  gave to Roby Piantoni. After the first two pitches shared with Orobic Ice the route continues for a total of 11 pitches and 600m to climb the NW Face of Presolana Occidentale. This...
Cugi's Corner
Cugi's Corner - Cimon di Palantina
TD+
Mixed line which follows a logical rocky corner, just to the left of the pillar and “Questo gioco di Fantasmi”. The rock is friable in sections and at times both dirty and covered in grass, meaning that favourable ice conditions...
Papillon
Papillon
IV, 4, M6, 5°
Nice route, far from the usual ice climbing destinations...
Super Goofer
Super Goofer
II/5-
Super Goofer can be climbed in two ways. A first 35m pitch up 75/80° ice (Goofer direct, grade 3) or a corner gully to the left which leads directly to the base of the upper drip.
Remission
Remission
IV/5+/5.8
Very difficult mixed route. In some seasons a direct first pitch comes into condition, but this is extremely rare.
Repentance
Repentance
III/5
Very interesting line with conditions - and consequently difficulties - which vary considerably from one year to the next. In some seasons it is an almost exclusively mixed outing.


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