The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

331
Routes in archive
Tsunami
Tsunami - Mt Patterson
M5 WI5+
A classic alpine ice route established in May 2011: three very alpine like pitches with thin ice and scrappy mixed climbing led to another three  three sustained ice pitches and the top of the seracs. The route finishes on the...
Piantobaldo
Piantobaldo - Presolana
WI4 M7 A1
"Piantobaldo" was the name Bruno "Camos” Tassi  gave to Roby Piantoni. After the first two pitches shared with Orobic Ice the route continues for a total of 11 pitches and 600m to climb the NW Face of Presolana Occidentale. This...
Cugi's Corner
Cugi's Corner - Cimon di Palantina
TD+
Mixed line which follows a logical rocky corner, just to the left of the pillar and “Questo gioco di Fantasmi”. The rock is friable in sections and at times both dirty and covered in grass, meaning that favourable ice conditions...
Papillon
Papillon
IV, 4, M6, 5°
Nice route, far from the usual ice climbing destinations...
Super Goofer
Super Goofer
II/5-
Super Goofer can be climbed in two ways. A first 35m pitch up 75/80° ice (Goofer direct, grade 3) or a corner gully to the left which leads directly to the base of the upper drip.
Remission
Remission
IV/5+/5.8
Very difficult mixed route. In some seasons a direct first pitch comes into condition, but this is extremely rare.
Repentance
Repentance
III/5
Very interesting line with conditions - and consequently difficulties - which vary considerably from one year to the next. In some seasons it is an almost exclusively mixed outing.
Senza Nome
Senza Nome - Col Pelous
WI 4+/M
The "unnamed icefall" is located to the right of the classic "Rio Pelous". Climb the first pitch up a chimney/gully past a wedged tree trunk and continue up a further two pitches of weathered ice. The route is clearly visible...
Vernel Gully
Vernel Gully - Marmolada - Vernel
WI 4/ M/ R/II
A great gully set in a quiet and beautiful environment which is reminiscent of the gullies in the Western Alps, more than the classic icefalls in the Dolomites. The route alternates vertical ice, short snow patches and mixed sections which...
La bizzarra
La bizzarra - Col Pelous
WI 6+/M 8+
A beautiful and psychologically demanding outing as many sections require trad gear for protection... This latest addition to the valley, during a Mountain Guide training course in 2011, offers difficult ice and delicate mixed climbing!
Agghiacciante
Agghiacciante - Col Pelous
WI 6/M8
A beautiful three-pitch ice climb which climbs the right-hand side of the drip, alternating delicate mixed sections with difficult ice.
Vecioti e Zovenoti
Vecioti e Zovenoti - Col Pelous
WI 5
Vecioti e Zovenoti offers two fun and varied pitches; drips and vertical ice at the start provide beautiful moves in search of the easiest line, while the angle eases off on the second pitch but the ice becomes thinner and...
Fluido Giallo
Fluido Giallo - Col Pelous
WI 5/ M6
Fluido Giallo is an elegant three-pitch outing which can easily be combined with the classic Rio Pelous.
Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem
Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem - Col Pelous
WI 5/M6
Tupac Amaru - Carpe Diem is a fun and very beautiful three-pitch ice climb. After an easy first slabby pitch the icefall steepens and alternates delicate mixed sections with vertical, articulated ice. A bolt and peg were placed on the...
Grotta di Pian
Grotta di Pian - Val Duron
D4 / M11+
The Grotta di Pian was bolted by Mario Prinoth and Renato Bernard, with the help of other local climbers. It is is an ideal training venue for bigger climbs in the mountains and to learn the subtleties of "dry-tooling". The...
Solo per i tuoi occhi
Solo per i tuoi occhi - Monte Pelmo
V, WI 5+ XRM
The marvellous icefall which falls directly down from the so-called Pelmo "throne" is impossible to ignore when driving up from Zoppè di Cadore or walking towards Rifugio Venezia A. De Luca (1946m). The icefall requires perfect temperatures due to its...


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