The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

331
Routes in archive
Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone
Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone - Cima Spallone del Sassolungo 3081m
IV, WI 5 M
The summit of the Langkofel shoulder can be reached via one of the great Dolomites classics, namely by climbing the first section of Raggio di sole and combining this with the icefall Cascata dello Spallone. As explained by Massimo Meneghetti...
Tower Ridge
Tower Ridge - Ben Nevis
IV,3
This, the most famous of the great Nevis ridges, is a magnificent expedition. It is technically easier than the North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge, but it should not be underrated. The main difficulties are concentrated high up, and the...
Point Five Gully
Point Five Gully - Ben Nevis
1344m
A justifiably popular route, often in condition and the benchmark grade V,5 from which all other steep snow-ice gully climbs are graded.
Ghost Dog
Ghost Dog - Sass Pordoi
WI6 XR/M5/6a, some pitches X and R
Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route - Mont Blanc
ED
This is certainly one the absolute classic and popular routes in the Alps and leads to the summit of Mont Blanc via the highest rock pillar in the entire massif. Thanks to its altitude and orientation the tip of the...
Jottnar
Jottnar - Mont Blanc
VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
Hypa Zypa Couloir
Hypa Zypa Couloir - The Citadel
ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3
From 5 - 7 April Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas made the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir up the East Face of the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.  The trio established in the route in 70...
L'Onda di Hokusai
L'Onda di Hokusai - Molignon di Dentro 2852m
WI5+, 60°, M3
The Molignon peak dominates the upper Duron valley with its imposing face that marks the southern end of the Seiser Alm. The route takes a line up the eastern flank and finished immediately to the right of the Molignon di...
Dolasilla
Dolasilla - Tofane
M13-
50m long, 25m overhanging, named after the legendary Fanes princess... this is Dolasilla, the beautiful and difficult mixed route discovered and established by South Tyrolean alpinist Florian Riegler and subsequently freed by Pavol Rajcan.
Pinocchio
Pinocchio - Tofane
M8+, WI 5
Mixed ice climb, protected by bolts on the lower section, put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr and freed in winter 2013 by Martin and Florian Riegler.
Sabotørfossen
Sabotørfossen
II/WI 5
A true classic. A section of pitch 2 is partially hidden from below.
Grabeinsisen
Grabeinsisen
II/WI 4
Interesting icefall with a first section of thin ice immediately to the right of Fossekjerringa which serves as an ideal combination.
Fossekjerringa
Fossekjerringa
II/WI 5
Very beautiful icefall with a steep start: pay particular attention here if the ice is thin.
Attraverso Travenanzes
Attraverso Travenanzes - Tofane
III, WI5+
This icefall is located in the Supermario sector. The lower section of the route forms frequently while the upper drip formed and touched down thanks to the abundant rainfall in autumn 2012. This is a great journey past hanging drips...
Ritter der Kokosnuß
Ritter der Kokosnuß - Breitwangflue
M12, WI5
M12, WI5, 165m up the impressive Breitwangflue above the Swiss village of Kandersteg, established after numerous attempts spread out over the years, always ground-up and without bolts, protected with ice screws, pegs and nuts and friends. These are the main...
Senza Piombo
Senza Piombo - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
M10 WI 5
A beautiful and difficult route first climbed by the Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner,i n a clean style, i.e. without pegs and bolts and using only nuts and friends to protect the pitches and belays.


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