The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

340
Routes in archive
La Strega + Evolution
La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI 5+ M9+
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...
Banana Sprint
Banana Sprint - Grandes Murailles
850m disl, 1300m sviluppo
The obvious line up the SE Face.
Edle Mischung
Edle Mischung - Ciampanil de Mufreit

Fantastic ice climb up the north face of Ciampanil de Mufreit (Sella group) reached after having climbed the first three pitches of L Ciamin, put up by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder.
The thin ice
The thin ice - Monte Miletto, North presummit
D-, 60°, 75°
Logical, obvious and by no means extreme line up the North Face of Monte Miletto.
Umbaltal Eisarena
Umbaltal Eisarena

Thanks to the large number of ice and mixed routes of all grades, all located close to one another, the Eisarena Umbaltal will soon develop into one of the top mixed and ice climbing areas in the Tirol
Fancy of Peckers
Fancy of Peckers - Col du Peigne
M5+ R
After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...
Zweite Geige
Zweite Geige - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI7/M7
On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Merà Dimel
Merà Dimel - Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte
AI 4 M6
Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...
Il Grande Salto
Il Grande Salto
TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+
On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. This is...
Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone
Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone - Cima Spallone del Sassolungo 3081m
IV, WI 5 M
The summit of the Langkofel shoulder can be reached via one of the great Dolomites classics, namely by climbing the first section of Raggio di sole and combining this with the icefall Cascata dello Spallone. As explained by Massimo Meneghetti...
Tower Ridge
Tower Ridge - Ben Nevis
IV,3
This, the most famous of the great Nevis ridges, is a magnificent expedition. It is technically easier than the North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge, but it should not be underrated. The main difficulties are concentrated high up, and the...
Point Five Gully
Point Five Gully - Ben Nevis
1344m
A justifiably popular route, often in condition and the benchmark grade V,5 from which all other steep snow-ice gully climbs are graded.
Ghost Dog
Ghost Dog - Sass Pordoi
WI6 XR/M5/6a, some pitches X and R
Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route - Mont Blanc
ED
This is certainly one the absolute classic and popular routes in the Alps and leads to the summit of Mont Blanc via the highest rock pillar in the entire massif. Thanks to its altitude and orientation the tip of the...
Jottnar
Jottnar - Mont Blanc
VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
Hypa Zypa Couloir
Hypa Zypa Couloir - The Citadel
ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3
From 5 - 7 April Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas made the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir up the East Face of the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.  The trio established in the route in 70...


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