The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

SuperPiter - Monte Aga 



AI 6+ M6
First light saw us at the base of the gully, which at first glance looked excellent. Our only worry was… would we manage to breach the cave that towered overhead? No need to describe how happy we were when we...

La Piera - Dlacion de col dela Pieres 



IV, WI 5
Compared to the nearby Val Gardena, Vallunga is more suited to more adventurous ice climbers, those who love a pristine alpine ambient. Vallunga is a lonely valley, criss-crossed for a bit by a cross-country piste, marked by 600-700m high faces...

Hruschka - Mur de Pisciadù 



WI 5 M4 V-
This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...

Amore e ombra - Col Turont 



M9, VIII, WI5
A difficult new mixed outing in Langental that follows a logical series of of cracks and corners up the Col Turont face.

Dlacion de Frea - Murfreit Frea 



WI 6 / M6 (possibile easier finish)
New ice climbing called Dlacion de Frea, which in local Ladin 'Frea ice drip’. The route ascends an icy chimney that has not not formed during the last 30 - 40 years. The ice varies from being very thin to cauliflower...

Exo-Ciuc - Valgrisenche 



WI5/II
The name of the route refers to the far harder and more famous Exocet, the spectacular ice climb up Aguja Standart, in Patagonia. The waterfall is high avalanche risk in the event of heavy snowfall. The icefall is at risk...

Wind of Change - Monte Nero di Presanella 



M6+WI5
A very beautiful mixed outing, both complete and demanding: rock and mixed climbing leads to a small ledge on the left and then, around the corner, a beautiful corner rises sharply upwards. This is followed by another, with a thin...

Rolling Stones - Monte Nero di Presanella 



WI 4+/M6
Great route first climbed to the summit by Andrea Reboldi and Claudio Migliorini on 4/11/2013. The first attempt of this line probably goes back to the 1990s by Care' & C; considering the intense activity by local climbers there may well have...

Una via per te fatta in tre - Monte Nero di Presanella 



WI4/M4
Pleasant mixed climb up the sunny south face of Monte Nero. The route, which ends on the summit, is shorter than those on the north face, not too difficult but with some sections that are more demanding.

Stortoland - Monte Dolada 



D5 - D7+
In May and July 2014 Andrea Saviane, Enrico De Nard "Thunder" and I bolted a new drytooling / total dry crag close to the normal crag at Monte Dolada in the Belluno Prealps, located at 1500m above sea level and...

Shampoo Dry - Valle di Champorcher 



M4 - M7
New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.

Anitaice - Cima Denti della Vecchia 



M5
This route rarely comes into condition and should be avoided at all costs after snowfall due to avalanche danger on the slopes that lead to the base of the climb.

Clean Climb - Monte Nero di Presanella 



IV/M4+
A new mixed outing up the extreme left-hand side of the North Face of Monte Nero (Presanella). Climbed in 5 hours, as the name suggests the route was climbed with trad gear only, including the belays, and offers exciting,...

Saumons et Glacons - Combe Maudite 



M5/M5+, WI5, R, S2+
An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!

An... Ice Surprise - Combe Maudite 



M7, WI5, A1+, III
A very demanding route which requires a good level of familiarity with drytooling and placing gear. It has the potential of becoming a classic route in its genre.

Seltene Erden - Wildgall - Collaspro 



80° M4+ V+
Great route in an isolated setting with a true alpine feel to it, also thanks to the long approach. While the difficulties are never excessive, the final sections of pitches five and six require special care and attention and are...
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