The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

331
Routes in archive
Stortoland
Stortoland - Monte Dolada
D5 - D7+
In May and July 2014 Andrea Saviane, Enrico De Nard "Thunder" and I bolted a new drytooling / total dry crag close to the normal crag at Monte Dolada in the Belluno Prealps, located at 1500m above sea level and...
Shampoo Dry
Shampoo Dry - Valle di Champorcher
M4 - M7
New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.
Anitaice
Anitaice - Cima Denti della Vecchia
M5
This route rarely comes into condition and should be avoided at all costs after snowfall due to avalanche danger on the slopes that lead to the base of the climb.
Clean Climb
Clean Climb - Monte Nero di Presanella
IV/M4+
A new mixed outing up the extreme left-hand side of the North Face of   Monte Nero (Presanella). Climbed in 5 hours, as the name suggests the route was climbed with trad gear only, including the belays, and offers exciting,...
Saumons et Glacons
Saumons et Glacons - Combe Maudite
M5/M5+, WI5, R, S2+
An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!
An... Ice Surprise
An... Ice Surprise - Combe Maudite
M7, WI5, A1+, III
A very demanding route which requires a good level of familiarity with drytooling and placing gear. It has the potential of becoming a classic route in its genre.
Seltene Erden
Seltene Erden - Wildgall - Collaspro
80° M4+ V+
Great route in an isolated setting with a true alpine feel to it, also thanks to the long approach. While the difficulties are never excessive, the final sections of pitches five and six require special care and attention and are...
La Strega + Evolution
La Strega + Evolution - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI 5+ M9+
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts. The first pitches that lead to the roof were climbed for the first time in 1992 by the brothers Cristoforo and...
Banana Sprint
Banana Sprint - Grandes Murailles
850m disl, 1300m sviluppo
The obvious line up the SE Face.
Edle Mischung
Edle Mischung - Ciampanil de Mufreit

Fantastic ice climb up the north face of Ciampanil de Mufreit (Sella group) reached after having climbed the first three pitches of L Ciamin, put up by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder.
The thin ice
The thin ice - Monte Miletto, North presummit
D-, 60°, 75°
Logical, obvious and by no means extreme line up the North Face of Monte Miletto.
Umbaltal Eisarena
Umbaltal Eisarena

Thanks to the large number of ice and mixed routes of all grades, all located close to one another, the Eisarena Umbaltal will soon develop into one of the top mixed and ice climbing areas in the Tirol
Fancy of Peckers
Fancy of Peckers - Col du Peigne
M5+ R
After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...
Zweite Geige
Zweite Geige - Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena
WI7/M7
On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Merà Dimel
Merà Dimel - Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte
AI 4 M6
Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...
Il Grande Salto
Il Grande Salto
TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+
On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. This is...


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