Merà Dimel Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte

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Merà Dimel - Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte

Italy>Lombardy>Central Alps>Presolana>Presolana - Anticima delle Quattro Matte

Tito Arosio

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Merà Dimel

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Beauty

First ascent

Yuri Parimbelli G.A. Tito Arosio CAAI, Ennio Spiranelli CAAI - 13/01/2014

Tito Arosio

Length

650m

Difficulty

AI 4 M6

Route

Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5 and 6 are the crux. For a repeat wait for the snow on the summit to settle. The grades are approximate as there were numerous unstable snow mushrooms.

Getting there

Colere in Val di Scalve (BG). Park at the sports centre and walk along path no # CAI 402 past Pian di Vione to Rifugio Albani. Leave the forest and head to the base of the gully. 1 hour approach.

Descent

Abseil down the route (in-situ belays).

Gear

6/7 pegs and friends to # 4

Notes

Thanks to: Grivel, Grande Grimpe, Karpos, C.B.L. Utensileria di Costa volpino, Wild Climb, Zamberlan and Pub Nevada di Colere