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Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal...
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of...
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours
06/09/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours
On 01/09/2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz climbed the four ridges of the Matterhorn in 7 hours 43 minutes and 45 seconds. Furggen Ridge ascent, Hörnli Ridge descent, Zmutt Ridge ascent and Lion's Ridge descent, without external support and gear...
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
26/08/2024 - Alpinism
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
On 23 and 24 July 2024 German alpinists Christian Bickel and Micha Rinn climbed all the peaks of the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo skyline in one single push. Despite its obviousness, this is likely to be the first integral...
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers...
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the...
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
01/03/2024 - Climbing
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/09/2023 - Alpinism
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
In August 2023 the virgin NW Face of Ranrapalca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru was been climbed alpine style by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito via their 'Ya Pe' Cholo' (6b/80°/1,200m).
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a...
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m)....
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video
25/11/2022 - Alpinism
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video
Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia received the 2022 Piolets d'Or for the first ascent of the NW Face of Saraghrar Northwest in Pakistan.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar...

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