Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines

He lets his actions to the talking. This is how one can summarise the mountaineering antics of Benjamin Védrines, the French mountain guide who has established hard routes from the Alps to the Greater Ranges, often at high speed. A few weeks after completing the two-day winter crossing of the Queyras massif, from 28 to 29 January Védrines returned to mountains, this time to one of the most famous and iconic alpine faces, the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102m).

"One of the craziest ascents I've ever done in the Alps" is the initial comment of Védrines, who for the occasion had teamed up with Nicolas Jean and Julien Cruvellier de Luze. Their route, called De l'Or en Barre, ascends a couloir that is as famous as it is feared.

"La Gorge is well known to local mountaineers. In the summer it is feared because of rockfall, but today it provided us with some great mountaineering." The route is 1000 meters high, and breaches difficulties up to M7 max, A1, 5+, ED+. "An obvious line, yet it had never been attempted until now". The climb has all the characteristics of being a great route, aking to those climbed during the pioneering era in the Alps. An old-fashioned line that climbs to the summit of the highest mountain in the Écrins, a massif dominated by the southernmost 4000ers in the Alps.

The trio set off on 28 January and broke trail through deep snow as they completed the long approach from Champhorent to Col des Avalanches. "We encountered Himalayan conditions and dimensions." On reaching the base of the wall they were immediately up against "typical Écrins rock", as they weaved past overhangs and "crazy section and suprising ice."

They managed to find a comfortable bivy for the night "A large snow hole, perched on this wall, with a beautiful view onto the Oisans valley". Unforgettable emotions, accompanied by doubts and the uncertainty about the their chances of success. "Nicolas Jean demonstrated some rare boldness while leading a crazy pitch, on what turned out to be a demanding but magnificent outing."

The second day began, but never seemed to end. One pitch after another, all the way to the summit, which they finally reached at 7pm, the sky full of stars. After restring for a few minutes, they descended down the Barre des Écrins normal route. "Once we got to the bottom we continued up to Col des Avalanches, where we retrieved our skis before quickly descending back valley." Tired but satisfied, while their curves in the snow were illuminated by the cold light of the moon.

by Gian Luca Gasca