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New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal
17/12/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal
A series of new mixed climbs have been added to Ralfkopf and Glödis above the Lesachtal valley close to Kals am Großglockner in Austria's East Tyrol by Vittorio Messini, Lukas Pichler, Michael Amraser, Isidor Poppeller and Hans Zlöbl.
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
03/12/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent...
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
17/09/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic Civetta climbs
06/05/2020 - Alpinism
rockfall on Dolomites Torre Venezia damages Via Tissi and other classic Civetta climbs
Serious rockfall took place on the south face of Torre Venezia (Civetta, Dolomites) recently, affecting the historic rock climbs Via Tissi, Gran diedro and Gran Diedro – Diretta.
The Pathan Project featuring Favresse, Maynadier, Molina, Wertz in Pakistan's Thagas Valley
02/04/2020 - Alpinism
The Pathan Project featuring Favresse, Maynadier, Molina, Wertz in Pakistan's Thagas Valley
The Pathan Project is now online until 15 April. The award-winning film directed by Guillaume Broust documents the 2018 climbing expedition to the Thagas Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan carried out by Nicolas Favresse, Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molinan and Jean-Louis Wertz.
Pizzo Badile Free Nardella climbed by Marcel Schenk, David Hefti
03/10/2019 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Free Nardella climbed by Marcel Schenk, David Hefti
Swiss climbers Marcel Schenk and David Hefti have climbed Via Nardella up Piz Badile, opened in 1973 by Daniele Chiappa, Giulio Martinelli, Tiziano Nardella and Elio Scarabelli in 1973. Hefti and Schenk onsighted all pitches, except for two which were...
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
30/09/2019 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV...
Nina Caprez, Aymeric Clouet climb Eiger's La Vida es Silbar
07/08/2019 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez, Aymeric Clouet climb Eiger's La Vida es Silbar
Swiss climbers Nina Caprez and Aymeric Clouet have repeated 'La Vida es Silbar' up the North Face of the Eiger.
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus
In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period...
David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview
04/12/2018 - Interviews
David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview
Interview with David Lama after his October 2018 solo first ascent of Lunag Ri, the 6907m mountain on the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m,...
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).