New mixed climb on Sciora Dafora in Switzerland by Roger Schäli, Peter von Känel

Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Peter von Känel have made the first ascent of Methadone, an 800m mixed climb on the wild NNE face of Sciora Dafora (3169m), also referred to as Sciora di Fuori, in the Bregaglia range of the Swiss Alps.

The new route offers difficulties up to M5 and is described as being "a trad-route offering beautiful climbing with surprisingly moderate difficulty and good natural features for protection." It was established on the last day of 2024 in a 15-hour round-trip from and to the Capanna di Sciora mountain hut.

The pair were convinced they were the first to climb this wild granite face, and were "genuinely surprised" to come across an old peg two pitches before the exit onto the ridge. It is highly likely that the pair followed in large part the summer climb established on 3 August 1974 by the Italians D. Erba, G. Maresi and F. Pirola, and repeated for the first time on 24 July 1977 by Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi who established a variation on the lower section of the climb.

Commenting on their social media handle after their ascent, the mountaineers stated "Impressive, what they achieved back in the day when the gear was not yet as good as today." After reaching the extremely airy summit the pair descended via the Scioretta Couloir; first ascended on 6/07/1892 by Anton von Rydzewski, Mansueto Barbaria and Christian Klucker, this line is no longer climbed in summer as it is too exposed to rockfall.

Schäli had noticed the striking line come into condition from the valley and, two days prior to the first ascent, climbed the obvious couloir to the left with climbing partner Luisa Fiammetta.

 

 

 

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