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South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
19/07/2024 - Alpinism
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
18/07/2024 - Competitions
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
The dourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Lijuan Deng of China and Ludovico Fossali of Italy.
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
17/07/2024 - Alpinism
new climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
16/07/2024 - Competitions
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
The Lead and Speed​World Cup took place in Chamonix, France, last weekend and was won respectively by Ai Mori and Colin Duffy, and by Zhang Shaoqin and Sam Watson. Fabio Palma reports
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
13/07/2024 - Climbing
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
The video of French climber Jules Marchaland making a rare repeat of 'Three Degrees of Separation', the iconic 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2007.
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
12/07/2024 - Events
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
Pro climber Caroline Ciavaldini reports about the Grimpeuses climbing meeting for women that took place on the outskirts of Paris at the end of May.
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to...
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
09/07/2024 - Alpinism
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
The short film 'Embracing the Grim' by Aleksandra Janiak featuring Fay Manners and Line van den Berg, the talented Dutch alpinist who perished in 2023
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
08/07/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
From 25 - 29 June 2024 the Japanese climbers Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Ostubo and Yudai Suzuki made the first ascent of 'Dream House' (1240m, M6, AI5+, A2, R/X, VI) on the Quitaraju (6036m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.

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