Mixed climb added to Tour des Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif) by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza

March 2025 – While snowshoeing in Val Ferret, I spotted this stunning line rising between two granite pinnacles, bathed in sunlight below Tour des Jorasses and Punta Massimo. I snapped photos from every angle, and when I reviewed them later, my eyes lit up — the line was there, beautiful and logical. I immediately texted my longtime partner in crime, Giovanni Ravizza. He took one look and replied: “Sick! Let’s go!”

After endless messages and calls, we set the date: Monday, 31 March. Despite forecasts of fierce northerly winds, we went for it. “We’ll be sheltered — no gusts up in there,” I told Gio. And I was right.

31 March, 5:30 AM – We left the Plampincieux parking lot. By 9:00 AM, we were at the base of Tour des Jorasses. The approach hadn't been straightforward: constant transitions from skis to crampons and back, then a steep climb with ski crampons which proved essential , though the ascent was grueling nevertheless.

We started up the route, quickly realising what awaited us: a magnificent line of ice, well-formed, with mixed sections featuring some stunning blue ice. Ten pitches and 550 meters later — tired but elated — we topped out at the end of the difficulties.

We couldn’t believe it. The hard part was over. Now came the descent: rappelling off Abalakovs and gear we’d placed on the way up. A quick break at the base, then a 1,600-meter ski down through perfect corn snow because... why not end the day in style?

Another epic backyard adventure with Gio, though not without surprises: one Abalakov failed, leaving me dangling on the backup ice screw. Yet another reminder: always place that safety screw. Always.

As a proud member of the Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur 1850 (celebrating its 175th anniversary this year), I’m doubly honored. Hence the name of the route. Later, thanks to a comment by Marco Conti on Instagram, we learned this line had been dreamed of for decades: first by Italian ice climbing legend Giancarlo Grassi, and then by Michele Ghirardi, the late CAI academic and mountaineer from Pinerolo who’d kept an eye on it for years, as he skinned up the valley, binoculars in hand. I knew Michele well, and it’s humbling to have climbed a route he once envisioned.

— Niccolò Bruni