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It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
25/11/2024 - Interviews
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
Interview with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl after her ground-breaking, historic flash ascent of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Barbara Zangerl flashes Freerider on El Capitan
24/11/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl flashes Freerider on El Capitan
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has flashed 'Freerider' (VI 5.13a), making her the first person in history to flash El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest island by sailing boat. Kent provides the details.
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
21/10/2024 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
Mountain guide Josef Hilpold has made the first ascent of 'Giai amus a obiare' (6b, 155m) on Pedra Longa in Sardinia.
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan
01/10/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan
Japanese climbers Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida and Yudai Suzuki have made the first ascent of the West Face of Thui II (6523m) in Pakistan. 'Spider’s Thread' (ED+, M7, A2, 1450m) was climbed alpine style over a period of 4 days and is likely to be only the second ascent of...
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
26/08/2024 - Alpinism
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
On 23 and 24 July 2024 German alpinists Christian Bickel and Micha Rinn climbed all the peaks of the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo skyline in one single push. Despite its obviousness, this is likely to be the first integral enchainment of these nine famous Dolomites peaks.
Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
02/08/2024 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
19/07/2024 - Alpinism
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
17/07/2024 - Alpinism
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Fay Manners, Benjamin Ramos ski new line on Grande Fourche
Fay Manners, Benjamin Ramos ski new line on Grande Fourche
On 12/05/2024 Fay Manners and Benjamin Ramos made what is believed to be a new ski descent on the south face of Grande Fourche in the Mont Blanc massif.
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

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