Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster climb new ice in Laasertal, Vinschgau, South Tyrol

On the 19th of January my good friend and trusted climbing partner Philipp Prünster and I were able to climb a new line in Laasertal, a side valley of the Vinschgau in the South Tyrol.

The line itself had already formed in the recent years as a very thin layer of ice or just a sliver, however it never really came into condition. But this winter, things were different!

After a four-hour approach, Philipp and I reached the remote head of the valley end – we had to break trail through fresh snow up to our hips at times, which cost us both strength and time – and we were astonished with what we saw. Our original goal, the ice and mixed climb Defender, was barely there. Although there was some ice at the start, the upper part of the route was completely dry and didn’t look climbable.

We didn’t have to think long. We continued breaking trail and literally dug our way up to the start of the other line, which this winter had formed so beautifully for the first time. By the time we got there it had started snowing and visibility was getting worse, but that didn’t stop us.

After two moderate ice pitches (WI5 max), we reached a broad snow gully. To avoid setting off a possible avalanche, we climbed higher on the right side of the gully (about 40°, a small ice step WI 2-3) and eventually reached the upper section of ice we'd already seen from down in the vallet. After a long pitch, we reached the top of the climb.

As a nod to the route on the left Defender (the off-road vehicle of the first ascensionists), we named our climb 4Matic (thanks to my 4x4 van!)

We abseiled down using Abalakov ice threads and started the long way back. We reached the car just as it was getting dark; what a day in a truly breathtaking setting! What makes this beautiful for me is that all these routes are not far from home. Which  makes this first ascent something very special for me!

by Simon Messner