Filippo Sala makes first ascent on Pizzo San Giacomo North Face in Switzerland

Pizzo San Giacomo in Switzerland's Canton Ticino is well-known among ski mountaineers as it lies en route to classic peaks such as Elgenhorn and Marchhorn. Yet, despite its popularity, its imposing north-facing rocky pyramid is believed to have never been climbed before, at least not in winter.

This changed on 24 February when Filippo Sala spent a day forging a new route on his own on the 400m face. He climbed rope solo, tackling difficulties up to M5 and A2, and believes the climb might go free in the region of M8. Upon topping out, he chose not to make the easy trudge to the summit but instead abseiled back down the line. The route is protected with traditional gear, and Sala left 4 peckers, 5 pitons, and 1 sling in-situ.

Writing to planetmountain, the 22-year-old aspiring mountain guide explained "For a few years now one of my goals has been to valorise my beloved Ticino, where mixed climbing is not really such a big thing, and where having big adventures on my doorstep is such fun!

My latest creation is the Pizzo San Giacomo north face, probably the longest and steepest face in Bedretto! For this I knew I wanted something more than usual, so this time I opted to climb rope solo. Also because I knew it would be a great opportunity to get better at this kind of climbing! In the end I got what I wanted, a big adventure, probably my biggest here in Ticino!

After making the 2:30 hour approach by skis from all'Acqua, on Sunday night I slept under the wall. The next day it took me about 12 hours to climb the route and get back down to the bivy. The route offers some hard and steep sections which I couldn’t climb free, probably they'll go at about M8. My grade proposal for this logical line is as follows: M5, A2 (M8?), 60°, 400m."

Asked about his style of ascent, Sala commented "I chose not to use bolts. This obviously affects the kind of risk you want to take, as no bolts = more risk, but this is part of the game I like to ply! If something is too risky without bolts, then instead of placing them, I prefer to walk away and leave the route as a project for someone who can accept more risk and do the route in this style!"