'Ussha' mixed climb added to Pyramide du Tacul (Mont Blanc massif)

On 18/03/2025 on Pyramide du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif, the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Giovanni Ravizza, together with aspiring mountain guide Michele Tixi, established the mixed climb 'Ussha' (ED M7+ 300m).
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The first ascent of 'Ussha' on Pyramide du Tacul, Mont Blanc (Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi 18/03/2025)
archivio Niccolò Bruni

Yet another brilliant intuition by Niccolò Bruni in the Mont Blanc massif. After C'est trop facile and Cadeau de Noël on Aiguille du Toula, the Courmayeur-based mountain guide, along with his colleague Giovanni Ravizza and aspiring guide Michele Tixi, has now established Ussha on Pyramide du Tacul. The 300m mixed climb breaches the mountain's southeast face with difficulties up to ED M7+.

Ussha climbs to the left of the classic Via Ottoz and to the right of the route put up by Enrico Bonino and Gianni Carbone. Essentially, it follows the abseil line of Via Ottoz, and the final pitch of Ussha shares the final pitch of Ottoz. The climb features some bolted belays, while others require cams. Additionally, there is one peg on one of the last hard pitches.

The trio, finally reunited after having established Toxic Mushroom on Mont Noire de Peuterey two years ago, explained, "It provides 8 spectacular pitches climbed with crampons and ice axes. There were plenty of thrilling moments, even run-out from the last piece of pro!"

For the record, two days after the first ascent, the French climbers Arnaud Bouvard and Jeff Mercier made the first repeat, during which they established a two-pitch variation on the upper section of the route. Moreover, the A1 section of the penultimate pitch was climbed free and graded M5 expo.

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