New mixed climbs on Ralfkopf and Glödis in Austria's Lesachtal

The Kalser Lesachtal, a small side valley of Kals am Großglockner in Austria’s East Tyrol, is home to some beautiful mountains of the northern Schober group. Among them there’s the relatively unknown Ralfkopf, as well as the highly popular (from the south) Glödis, also dubbed the "Matterhorn of East Tyrol".

The melting of the glaciers has made this area very rocky and inhospitable in summer, but in winter and spring it has become a paradise for ski mountaineering. What happens in autumn though, when there is still little snow and the steep walls are frozen white?

In 2015 the mountain guides Michael Amraser and Vittorio Messini managed to climb a direct line a little to the left of the old Blaslroute (a large part of which had disappeared due to a rockfall). The following year Amraser and his client were able to forge the first direct line on Ganot which, in gode conditions, is an absolute delight.

In autumn 2018, when conditions on the north faces across the Eastern Alps were great (resulting in the likes of Sintflut on Mt. Prijakt), Vittorio Messini and client established Holiday on Ice, a new route up the NE Face of Ralfkopf that follows striking gully. However, due to time constraints the duo abandoned the gully at half-height by breaking off to the right, while this year the continuation turned out to be the more difficult variant.

Thanks to the very wet October, there were exceptionally good snow and ice conditions high up in the mountains this autumn, while up to 2000m remained snow free. Approaches were consequently easy and quick.

Messini teamed up with Lukas Pichler to repeat Holiday on Ice but then continued up the gully to reach the ridge that joins Ganot with Ralfkopf. The result is an extremely varied, challenging but not extreme mixed climb in great setting. This very logical winter climb has been called Lost in Pollywood. Along the entire climb route you not only have fabulous views onto Großglockner, but also onto the beautiful Mt. Glödis nearby with its distinctive gully tin the righthand side of the NW Face. This, until only recently, had not been climbed before.

A week later, Amraser, Messini, Pichler and Hans Zlöbl started up this elegant line on Mt. Glödis. After about 200m trudging through snow (50-55° gully) they were greeted with 4 outstanding, easy to protect M4/5 pitches. It comes as no surprise that after the first posts on Instagram, at least one party climbed this route every day for the next 10 days… The route was baptised Sundays for future and the name indicates that those in the Eastern Alps don't necessarily have to always drive 1000km to Chamonix in order to climb beautiful couloirs!

A few days later, Messini and Isidor Poppeller took advantage of the good conditions once again and established White gold about 100m to the left of Sundays for future. A little more difficult and sustained than its neighbour, but according to those who have already repeated it another "brilliant climb".

Kalser Lesachtal
Access: from Lienz drive to Huben and continue on to Kals am Großglockner. Turn right at the village Lesach and follow signs towards Lesachtal. Park in front of the barrier.
Approach: ideally with e-bike to Lesachalm, then continue on foot along the hiking trail towards Kalser Törl. From here either continue right across the moraine up to the Ralfkopf and Ganot faces or further left to reach the NW Face of Glödis.

Ralfkopf 3106m
Lost in Pollywood
V. Messini and L. Pichler, November 18, 2020
M5+/ WI4, R, 500m
In-situ gear: clean, except for a few pegs at the belays
Gear: 1 set of cams,double medium size, nuts, pegs and hammer, 50m ropes
Descent: abseil 2x50m on the west face, then continue down to the hiking trail and back to the starting point

Glödis 3206m
Sundays for future
M. Amraser, V. Messini, L. Pichler and H. Zlöbl, November 22, 2020
M4/5, 300m
In-situ gear: a few pegs, all belays were established with pegs
Gear: 1 set of cams, nuts, pegs and hammer, 60m ropes
Descent: abseil down the route

White gold
I. Poppeller and V. Messini
M5+, R, 300m
In-situ gear: only a few pegs
Gear: 1 set of cams, double small sizes, nuts, pegs and hammer, 60m ropes
Descent: abseil down Sundays for future