183 News found

18/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.

21/01/2025 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht Tommaso Lamantia and Luca Moroni have made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Gli Artigli di Dade' in the Gondoschlucht / Gole di Gondo at Gabi, Switzerland. The report by Lamantia and Moroni.

20/01/2025 - Climbing
Gabriele Gorobey sends 'Xaxid hostel' (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia On 16/01/2025 Italian climber Gabriele 'Sbisi' Gorobey sent his third 9a, 'Xaxid hostel' at Mišja Peč in Slovenia.

30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.

29/11/2024 - Book-press
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the...

16/08/2024 - Alpinism
Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif) Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra, together with Giovanna Mongilardi, have made the first ascent of 'Cric e Croc'. The 6-pitch rock climb is graded 6b+ max and is located on Rognon Vaudano, the cliff located below Dent...

21/07/2024 - Climbing
ReBolting- maintaining climbs in Switzerland The Rebolting association from Switzerland, dedicated to the maintenance of old climbing routes and supporting climbers in their maintenance efforts.

10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to...

23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...

25/01/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl & Martin Sieberer add Men with morals to Pinnistal in Austria Austrian alpinists Martin Feistl and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Männer mit Moral' (170m, M8, WI 6, R) in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria. Feistl reports.

07/12/2023 - Climbing
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.

08/09/2023 - Alpinism
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy) On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+...

25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at...

11/08/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes flash first ascent of 8c+ 'Baise moi' Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'Baise moi' at the crag Saint Auban in the Verdon Gorge, France. The Frenchman climbed the route flash style and has suggested the grade 8c+.

21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b

02/06/2023 - Climbing
New multipitch on Punta Argennas in Sardinia by Mathias Mandi, Klaas Willems On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).
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