Martin Feistl & Martin Sieberer add Men with morals to Pinnistal in Austria

Austrian alpinists Martin Feistl and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Männer mit Moral' (170m, M8, WI 6, R) in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria. Feistl reports.
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The first ascent of 'Männer mit Moral' in Pinnistal, Austria (Martin Feistl, Martin Sieberer 2022-2024)
Martin Feistl archive

Männer mit Moral, men with principles. The name refers to the neighbouring Männer ohne Nerven, men without nerves, the classic route put up by Andreas Orgler and Martin Wilberger on 24 March 1985. The route is to be understood as a traditional answer to the many bolts that have been sprouting up more and more in this traditional area in recent years, even on old existing lines. Our climb was established with 2 pegs during 3 days spread out over 2 years, and provides one or two spicy runouts that will be remembered for a long time to come.

As symbolic as the (forced) combination of all drips is for modern first ascents, as contrary to the modern spirit is the style we chose: in its 170 meters there are 2 pegs, including the belays, plus another pecker was placed on lead and removed by the second. The rest of the climb was protected exclusively with cams.

We started it in 2022, and our patience and belief in this line paid off in 2024. No fast consumption, no quick but guaranteed-success bolting. One has to wait for the suitable moment, partner and conditions and have a great deal of alpine experience. The route can be seen as a traditional response to current developments, and at the same time as a tribute to the origins of mixed climbing in Pinnistal.

For the record, the first ascent was made ecopoint, i.e. travelling to and from the route by public transport. Just like with kneepads, this would also be the style required for a valid repeat.

Martin Feistl




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