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New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
Federica Mingolla checks in and out of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
30/05/2023 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla checks in and out of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
Italian climber Federica Mingolla has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb in the Gola di Gorropu gorge in Sardinia, established ground-up between 1998 and 1999 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.
Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal
01/02/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal
French climber Sébastien Bouin has sent a flurry of hard routes in Portugal. At the seacliff crag Meio Mango at Cabo Espichel the 29-year-old established Rei de Bering at 9a+/b the hardest sport climb in the country.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock...
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik...
Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin
01/07/2022 - Climbing
Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin
The new climbing series Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin, featuring the crag Thaurac.
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
22/06/2022 - Environment
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
Wildfires raging across Spain have also burnt beneath Oliana, one of the most famous crags in the world.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin...
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
22/11/2021 - Climbing
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
Three women, and three climbs, which helped change the course of rock climbing: Luisa Iovane on Comeback in Val San Nicolò in 1986, Lynn Hill on The Nose in 1993 and Josune Bereziartu on Bain de Sang in 2002. Our...
Adam Ondra makes swift third ascent of Erebor, 9b at Arco in Italy
11/11/2021 - Climbing
Adam Ondra makes swift third ascent of Erebor, 9b at Arco in Italy
Czech climber Adam Ondra has made the third ascent of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo at Arco, Italy. Established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January and repeated by Laura Rogora a month ago, Ondra now believes it warrants...
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
28/07/2021 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
The third episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's. After Finale Ligure and Sperlonga, the third stop are the crags at Ferentillo in the heart of Umbria.
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
04/01/2021 - Climbing
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arcadia, a brilliant new crag close to Leonidio in Greece.
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in...
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco
On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before...

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